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ATTN: Mechanics, advice needed urgently pls!

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  • ATTN: Mechanics, advice needed urgently pls!

    Hi Guys -

    I'm trying to replace a rear shock on a 996, and it's driving me insane..

    I've managed to get the deep screws that hold the rear shock and linkage onto the upper linkage that goes into the frame, but theres no way I can (yet) remove the lower screw.

    This is the big long screw (about 3" long I'm guessing) that's next to the chain, first goes through the linkage, then the shock, and then into a retainer on the other side of the swingarm.

    So far I've broken 3 8mm hex sockets (including a 1 piece impact socket) but trying to wrench it on a long breaker bar. It just won't budge...

    I'm scared I'm going to snap the screw off..

    What options do I have? I've tried spraying the crap out of it with WD40 (over many days) and just no go..

    What's the next thing to try? Should I go and get an air compressor and an impact driver? Will these provide much more force than the big breaker bar I've been trying?

    Pls help guys, this is trying me out of my mind...

    Thanks!

  • #2
    did you try tightening it before loosening it to unbind the thread? Or punch in the centre of the screw head with a drift and a few sharp taps with a hammer to unbind the thread and screw head, a common problem with countersunk screws.

    It may have thread locking compound on it which will take shock or heat to release, and heat may not be a good idea on an oil/gas filled shock
    Do you remember the good old days before the internet?

    when arguments were only entered into by the physically or intellectually able.

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    • #3
      Perhaps there is some red loctite on it. If you can get to the inside end with a torch and heat it up it may come loose with just a ratchet.
      Good luck sir.

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      • #4
        Loctite freeze and release.
        Harvey community radio has a motorcycling show listen over the web here www.harveycommunityradio.com.au ,Facebook here http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Mo...34691323302991 yes I am the goose that hosts it.

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        • #5
          yep tried tapping, tightening etc, but I've not tried an impact tool as I don't have air in my shed...

          Here's the offending bitch in question:



          "screw" 17.. It's about 4 inches long... Looks like there's a thread only on the very end of it, which you can sorta see screws into part 18 (I'm guessing)...

          I'll try impacting it I guess (any excuse to buy some more tools?) and if I fuck it it looks like I can drill it out/bash it out as the actual thread looks like it's only on the end..

          I guess?

          Last edited by kryten2001; 19-04-2011, 10:01 PM.

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          • #6
            Not familiar with your bike. Is #18 threaded or is there a nut on the back side of it?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by firewrench View Post
              Not familiar with your bike. Is #18 threaded or is there a nut on the back side of it?
              Well I assumed it was threaded, but the diagram looks as if it's otherwise.. That might be my saving grace here...

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              • #8
                1/2" drive Impact driver with a single hex impact socket would be my second choice, first would be a 1/2" inch drive rattle gun with that same single hex socket, I'm not use to working with small bolts so no clue what torque yours will take before it snaps? Shock loading it usually results in a release or a snap, if neither work you have to look at heating it, don't work it while it's hot, let it cool, then try undoing it again, if still nothing? heat the thread end and try to undo it, if that doesn't work post another message. Side note, do a double check over it and make sure there are no other things like cotter pins, roll pins, grub screws, scotch keys etc holding it. That's about all I can think of atm, been up since 4:30am, good luck


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                • #9
                  You would think the diagram would show a nut if there was supposed to be one there but.... maybe it is threaded and a nut has been put on also, double nutting and jamming it tight?
                  Gotta go to work, good luck mate.

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                  • #10
                    Just saw your pic, looks like an Allen head cap screw, they're often a grade 10.9 high tensile material. Just wondering if the back lobe on your swing arm is threaded and if part 18 is a double nut type setup?


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                    • #11
                      The front lobe that bolt 17 goes through initially, is that recessed? Does the head of bolt 17 sit flush with the lobe? If it does? I'd recon the back lobe is threaded


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                      • #12
                        Part 18 is the end of that line, no other parts are on that centerline, though it shows no shapes that indicate it can be driven or held, as in, no opposite flats or hex shape


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                        • #13
                          I got pissed off with breaking allen keys over the years so went and asked for the most expensive ones they had. I think an Unbrako set cost me about $100 for the long type with the ball on the end. They are pretty long and so far indestructible but I have never tried them with a breaker bar.

                          -

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cephas View Post
                            The front lobe that bolt 17 goes through initially, is that recessed? Does the head of bolt 17 sit flush with the lobe? If it does? I'd recon the back lobe is threaded
                            It's recessed mate (head sits flush). I think you're right, I think the thread is only on part 18. If it snaps I can always drill it out through part 18 and smash shit out of it to remove it eh???

                            Problem is the bloody exhaust is on the other side, part 18 is obscured...

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by agrid View Post
                              I got pissed off with breaking allen keys over the years so went and asked for the most expensive ones they had. I think an Unbrako set cost me about $100 for the long type with the ball on the end. They are pretty long and so far indestructible but I have never tried them with a breaker bar.

                              Mate no way.... I've got a baseball bat sized breaker bar and I'm putting full force into it before these sockets are sheering. The actual screw itself is unmarked (must be seriously tough), but these 1/2 high tensile sockets are just splintering.

                              I'm guessing the 'rattle gun' approach would be my next choice. If that doesn't work, drill the fucking thing out on the other side... Problem is I gotta remove the bloody exhaust to do that.... arg.

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