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  • Advice hayabusa brakes

    Hi guy's,

    My Hayabusa front brakes were poor, sticking and only one pad was being depressed into the rotor, both sides.
    I stripped the calipers, cleaned them and the pistons, replaced the seals and now they are very spongy.
    Upon depressing the lever, it comes right to the throttle with minimum slowing of the bike, if I pump the lever 3 to 4 times the brakes work well.
    Of course I can't afford to pump the lever 4 times before I start slowing down so any advice regarding this problem is appreciated.
    I think is is trapped air but I have bled the absolute shit out of these lines and calipers.
    Many thanks.

  • #2
    Bled from both the top and bottom?
    Ryan

    Originally posted by Aufitt
    Try Para045, he definitely sounds all gooey in the fork for ya

    Comment


    • #3
      No mate, not 100% sure how to bleed from the top.
      I think I have found the issue 5 min ago when going out to tinker on my other bike.
      Due to riser plate and bars, it appears that the adjustable lever has been coming into contact with the visor and adjusting it so the lever is closer to the throttle, which in turn is not giving me a full depression.
      I adjusted the lever out to it's furtherest point and brakes work fine now, or as good as shitty gen 1 brakes can work.
      Thanks for the input.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Can Admin please delete this post. Cheers

      Comment


      • #4
        Bleed them properly and check that the brake lines are not damaged/bulging anywhere. It should not need full leaver adjustment for the brakes to work.
        RR VRT #100
        Sponsors Wanted.
        Thanks to www.superbikesupply.com.au and ProFlow for assistance.
        A 1K throttle is like a hot blond, you really want to hit it but you are afraid of the consequences :black eye:

        Comment


        • #5
          There's lots of threads on bleeding on the suzuki forums, worth reading up.

          I installed a GSXR front on my BMW and use those forums a lot for these purposes. The master cylinder bleed nipple on the bars doesn't fully seat so I have a tiny weep and need to bleed every 2 weeks or so.

          Reverse bleeding is an option too.
          Ryan

          Originally posted by Aufitt
          Try Para045, he definitely sounds all gooey in the fork for ya

          Comment


          • #6
            One owner. Only driven gently on Sundays. Sold to best offer. First to see will buy. Reward offered for safe return. Coming soon to a cinema near you. Available for a limited time only.

            My waterbed broke this morning. Oh, I don't have a waterbed. Bugger.

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            • #7
              the ol' pump the brakes into life
              then tie them on between rides seems to help
              Note: this may not be the universe where the above is relevant.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well Mayo, you might "have bled the absolute shit out of these lines" but what is really required is to bleed the "absolute air" out, and it appears that although they are now working ok/as shit as before, you still probably need to do that.

                It's not rocket science but it takes some skill, patience and perseverance and I'm sure it will be well worth the effort for a Busa. Get someone to show you how to do it if necessary.

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