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Running em in

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  • Running em in

    do u have run these little things in, and if so how?
    Nick :twisted:

  • #2
    I have no idea, but I doubt it.

    You don't need to "run-in" a lawnmower or whipper-snipper,
    these are about the same thing right?


    • #3
      I know Flakey didnt take it too easy on his..... :?
      Loud Pipes Save Lives


      • #4
        On my lil beast it said not to give it more than half throttle for the first 5 tanks of petrol.

        I'm going onto my 2nd tank soon.

        Also the ratio changes from 25:1 to 50:1 (oil to petrol) mix after you've run it in...


        • #5
          Ummm... how long do you expect a $500 2 stroke to last?

          probably worth changing the oil after the first run or 2 but doubt there much benefit doing anything else.


          • #6
            Change the oil? They're 2 stroke!
            HONDA! F#@ YER!


            • #7
              I'd say avoid prolonged high revs at first then building it up after maybe two tanks.A two stroke motor will be at it's most vulnerable just as you back off from prolonged full throttle,( ie the end of a straight ) this causes oil starvation as it's only lubrication is what is mixed with the petrol.

              When we used to run karts in , we would run in for say 15 minutes for a rebuild maybe a little more when new. ( and these things revved to somewhere between 18,000 - 22,000 rpm )

              As mentioned above run the oil/fuel mix a little rich too.


              • #8
                Here is some info I found on american websites about runing them in.
                I just copy and pasted this from the other forum.

                MIDBIKE TUNE TIPS.

                (These tips are mostly for X1/X2's but all midbikes are almost the same.)

                1) OUT OF THE BOX...
                when you fist get your X1/X2/cateye it will be, I’m sorry... a piece of junk the mechanics at GSMOON in china are just slapping these things together and shipping them out but with a little work you will have an affordable GP racer.

                2) HARDWARE PREP
                A)remove all plastic body fairings,
                lets start on the right side front ,
                remove each bolt one at a time so you don’t forget where you were (don't take the bike all the way apart unless you have the memory and skill to put back together)
                C)add some locktite 242 medium to each bolt
                D)put it back in, tighten (do not over tighten! the stock hardware is not the greatest, its easy to strip or shear )

                Go all the way around bike a make sure it's all tight .

                3) WIRES
                we took off all the lights on our race bikes but if you still have all those wires use tie wraps to keep them up around the gas tank and off the engine or you could melt them to your engine and/or pipe and have a real bad day

                4) FUEL OIL
                Any good synthetic oil. Remember, generally, the more it costs the better the quality. I use Burris Castor oil

                5) GAS MIX

                with the X1 or X2 believe it or not with these low compression weed wacker engines, regular pump gas 87 octane with a mix of 20:1 will give you max performance

                6) CVT OIL

                on the X2 there is an oil service fill and drain bolt on the CVT transmission the biggest bolt on the top of the CVT case is the fill and the biggest bolt on the bottom is the drain. check with manufacturer for specific oil.

                7) CHAIN LUBE

                Might I suggest the use of chain oil versus chain wax/chain grease. Just put the oil on a paper towel and just lightly coat the chain with it.


                the stock X2 with cvt, chain is way too tight
                you want to have at least 1/2 inch play up and down (total play 1 inch) the tight chain puts a heavy load on your cvt output shaft and could damage your output shaft seal !!!on our race bikes we had to add a couple links, especially if you have a larger than stock sprocket

                9)AIR FILTER
                the stock filter is just a piece of foam just use soap and water to clean, dry and reinstall

                if you put oil and gas in it the gas will clean ok and evaporate but the oil will stay on the filter attract dirt and choke the engine. I never recommend using gas to clean anything too dangerous.

                Some aftermarket racing filters require a type of oil on the filter element i.e. K&N filters but don’t do it on the stock one...let it breathe.

                K&N filters require their filter oil. Remember, DON'T OVERDO the oiling of the air filter! Just needs a tiny bit.

                As for me, I personally feel the oiling of the filter attracts more dirt so therefore I use a dry one. ADA Racing is one to be exact.

                10) SPARK PLUGS

                Non-Projected Type Tip (regular) Plugs:
                (Left to Right: hot to cold)

                NGK: BM6A, BM7A

                Nippon Denso: W20M-U, W22M-U

                Bosch: WS8E, WS7E, WS5E

                Champion: CJ8, CJ6

                AC Delco: CS45, CS42, CS41, CS40

                Motorcraft: A7NX, A3NX, A2NX

                Autolite: 235, 254, 255, 253
                (credit to zero4 for the info)

                Platinum plugs are not all they everyone says they are. The only thing about Platinum plugs is they last longer. COPPER conducts electricity better than platinum does.

                On another note, I wouldn't go with too hot of a plug (higher heat range) since the engine is air cooled to begin with. Don't want to have too much heat in the tiny engines.

                11) Starting YOUR X2

                you have to hold the rear break and then push the start button. Make sure you have a full charge on the battery.
                pull start = make sure your key switch is ON and close the choke once the bike starts open the choke

                12) STOCK CARB TUNE
                ok this is a little work I hope I don't lose anyone

                a) start engine and warm it up. (2-5 min)

                have someone lift the rear wheel off ground or use a bike stand to hold bike up off the ground.

                c) with short controlled burst of full throttle, turn the air screw IN (rightly tightly, clockwise, etc.) until you reach MAX RPM (listen to the revs- whine it out) Don't worry about turning the air screw in too far, once you go in too far the RPMs will slow down, that’s when you back it off until you reach MAX RPM again.
                This will work at any elevation.

                13) CVT SLIPING?


                I sanded my pulleys with 400 grit sandpaper, it hooks up much better now.

                14) FRONT FORK ADJUSTMENT ok you see the nuts on the bottom of your forks these are the lock nuts for the fork tension adjustment screw.
                (((They should be the same on both sides)))

                To adjust you need to remove front wheel and spin tube.
                If you want a harder front end let the threads stick out about an inch.
                If you want a softer ride let the threads stick out about 1/8 or 1/4 inch.

                If they are not the same on both sides you can damage the break rotor and get bad wear on the front tire use a ruler or some type of measuring devise to make sure they are the same on both sides.
                Fast, cheap & reliable ... pick any two.


                • #9
                  And here is some more. Pretty much the same thing.

                  When you first get your bike, replace the motor mount bolts with either stainless steel or another high grade steel bolt. Use blue loctite on them. DO NOT USE THE RED LOCTITE!!! Check all other bolts to see that they are tight and test the brakes before riding. Give the battery a good initial charge, too.

                  Start out with a 20:1 or 25:1 mix and work your way up to about 32:1. If you use really good gas and semi-synthetic 2 cycle oil you can even go higher, but it's probably not worth risking the damage to your motor because this is the only lubrication that it gets.

                  When using the pull start, never yank it to full extension. If you do, it won't last long. Usually 3-4 really slow pulls followed by 1-2 short, fast pulls will get you started cold and 1-2 short, fast pulls when warmed up. Don't forget to close the choke or get it to about 1/8 open when cold starting.

                  If your bike seems sluggish at first, it's because the cylinder needs to break in and you will need to adjust the carb after the cylinder has had some time to do so. After this the bike will run much better and easily get into the mid 20s, if not faster.

                  An Impact Screwdriver is a must for working on these bikes. It will save you a lot of stripped phillips heads on the original bolts.

                  The 43cc and 49cc engine cases are identical except for the bolt holes for the ignition coil. On the 43cc engine case the bolt holes are 2" apart. On the 49cc engine case the bolt holes are 2 7/16" apart. Measurements are from center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole.

                  The coils are obviously different then. On the 43cc coil, there are 2 spades that the wires attach to. On the 49cc coil there is 1 spade with a wire and the other wire has a ring terminal to go under one of the bolts that hold the coil on. This helps if you have to replace your engine case. You can interchange the cases if you change the coils too.

                  Coil Pics

                  Since the crankshaft is the same in both engines, your engine size/displacement (43cc/49cc) is determined by your cylinder.

                  This picture can help you identify whether you have a 43cc or 49cc cylinder. You would need to have your cylinder off or know what it looks like on the bottom. Take a good look at the bottoms of the cylinders.

                  Pic of 43cc & 49cc Cylinders

                  They both use the same base gasket, exhaust gasket, manifold gasket. The intake manifold and spacer is also the same.

                  CARB TUNING
                  First, adjust the slack out of the throttle cable by using the barrel nuts and jamb nuts on each end.

                  The adjusting screws are on the pullstart side of the bike. The idle screw is the screw with the phillips head. It is to the left and higher than the mixture screw which is slotted and has a spring on it. A good rule of thumb is to see if the bike will start and run without any adjustments. If so, I would ride it through 2-3 full tanks before trying any adjustments, so long as it isn't running too crappy.

                  Mixture adjustment is usually done by running the mixture screw all the way in and then backing it out 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 full turns. Ride the bike, so that you see how it runs with you as a load. If it is sputtering at high throttle, then you are too rich and need to lean the mixture. Leaning is turning the slotted screw to the right (clockwise), which decreases the fuel to air ratio. If it is bogging at high throttle, then you are too lean and need to turn the mixture screw to the left and richen the mixture a little. These fine adjustments should be done in 1/8 turn increments until you get good and maybe even then.

                  After getting the mixture adjusted, the idle shouldn't be hard. Turn the phillips screw clockwise to raise idle speed or counterclockwise to lower idle speed. Try to get it just high enough to be smooth, as you do not want it to be so high that it makes the bike want to pull when you have it just sitting or on the kickstand.

                  As you are facing the flywheel side of your engine, the rocket key should offset the flywheel to the left (counterclockwise). The arrow on the flywheel should also point in the direction of offset, if that is easier to relate to. Also don't forget to set the gap between the magneto on the flywheel and the coil. If you place a business card between them and then tighten the two bolts holding the coil, that should work fine.

                  Electric Starter Removal/Installation
                  First disconnect battery wiring harness and remove the starter wire from the solenoid.
                  1. Remove manual starter

                  2. Remove starter pawl (on my bikes it is the round silver/chrome metal piece that you see when you remove the manual starter, on some bikes it may be plastic). You will need to be able to keep the crank from rotating to do this step.

                  3. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the electric starter to the motor.

                  4. With the starter pawl removed, you should see a black nut in the center of the windings. This nut has internal threads that I believe are M8x1.25. You will need a hardened bolt that is at least 3" long and threaded all the way up to the head. Thread the bolt through the black nut until it presses the starter off. There is a woodruff key in the crank so make sure it doesn't come out and get lost.

                  Reinstalling is just a matter of aligning the woodruff key with the groove in the windings and reversing the steps.
                  Fast, cheap & reliable ... pick any two.


                  • #10
                    cor blimey :shock:
                    Loud Pipes Save Lives


                    • #11

                      Nice work Xoom.

                      I guess I understated it a bit much. :roll:


                      • #12
                        The destructions that came wif my said not to run it for more than 15 min and let it cool between runs, use 25:1 fuel/oil for run in (first 2 tanks), then 50:1 normal running.

                        Also, it did mention not to rev the engine too high... Yeah, ok...:roll:

                        It didn't say anyfink about not attempting wheelies, stoppies or grinding the pegs into the bitumen...

                        Anyway... I rekon the engine will outlast the frame anyway...
                        Aim high and consider yourself worthy of great things


                        • #13
                          thanks Xoom

                          i think that answered my question
                          Nick :twisted:


                          • #14
                            Yer make sure you tighten every single bolt!!
                            I started her up on the bike stand and revved and i had screws flying out left, right and center!!!

                            But make sure theyre not too tight. I fucked my front brake cos the allen key nuts were tightened to tight and the brake wont let up (had to remove the front brake completely)