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  • How to buy a 2nd Hand bike:

    Buying a used bike is an exercise of wits, faith, hope, charity and rat cunning. And the only thing you're risking is the entire contents of your wallet! Here are 20 top buying tips from the pages of Australian Motorcycle Trader

    1. Appearance:
    Original paint, stickers, mufflers. Do you know what an original should look like? Custom everything is nice but not worth a pinch of the proverbial in the used market.

    Bikes that are red or black will resell easily. If it has aftermarket mufflers and the like, ask if the original bits come with the bike. An original bike is always worth more when you go to sell it.

    Look for cancer: rust on the frame, corroded alloy bits, faded grey switchgear, yellowed screen, cracked and dull paint. Stand at the back of the bike and sight along the centre - does the fairing line up with the steering head? If not, it's had a big shunt and hasn't been fixed properly. Do the colours along the bodywork match?

    2. Fit:
    This is a good time to take a breather and sit quietly on the bike. Does it fit? Can you reach the ground easily? Is your pillion happy on the back seat? Can you get it on and off the stands? Can the levers or even seat height be adjusted to fit you better?

    3. Rego:
    How much is left? In some cases this could be a $600 observation.

    4. Provenance:
    Do the engine and frame match each other? This is an issue with classic Brit bikes where the frame and engine numbers should often match. And with some Japanese classics - does that CB1100R have the real powerplant in the frame or the easily-swapped CB900 engine which looks much the same? With the former it is a desirable motorcycle; with the latter it's next to worthless.

    Check the engine/chassis/rego numbers with your local registration authority before handing over the cheque - it could be stolen.

    5. Service history:
    If it has one, it's worth money in the bank. Look for dealer stamps, or the next-best which is a history recorded by the owner.

    6. Still under warranty:
    Warranties do transfer to the new owner but are of doubtful worth unless the bike has been dealer-serviced (by a pukka franchise) according to the manufacturer schedule (ask to see the records).

    7. Starting cold:
    Put your hand beside the engine/fairing. It should be cold. Ask the owner to start it - deduct points for use of jumper leads off the car battery and special techniques involving liberal use of a kickstart and the F-word. If it's pre-warmed when you turn up, treat it with suspicion. A bit of smoke at this stage is acceptable - it could be unburned fuel or even a bit of oil.

    8. Running:
    It should run smoothly through warm-up, while the choke/fast idle is backed off. Give it five minutes and switch it off.

    9. Warm start:
    Start it again - it should start first time, no excuses.

    10. Warm running:
    It should respond instantly to the throttle - try a gentle rev and then a hard rev to about 60 percent of redline. It should settle immediately back to idle speed (usually around 1000-1200rpm). If it settles to a fast idle, then slows to a normal idle after a few seconds, the carburetion is suspect. Was that a puff of smoke? Why? Is there an unusual rattle or bang? Have you heard the same powerplant in another bike? Does it change when you pull the clutch lever? Is that normal for this bike? Click it into gear and do a walking-pace take-off. Was the clutch action smooth? Did it drop into gear without hesitation?

    11. Tyres:
    Look for cracks (old rubber), depth of tread, and severe cuts or bits of metal in the tread. Check the entire circumference of each tyre.

    12. Chain/sprockets:
    Look at a rear sprocket on a new bike and see if your used item looks the same shape. Fat rounded teeth are what you're looking for. Anything that looks like shark teeth, with broken or chipped tops, is stuffed. The chain should have no more than a few centimetres slack on the lower run, midway between the engine and rear wheel.

    13. Steering:
    If it has a centrestand, use it, and take the weight off the front end (pushing down, or sitting someone, on the pillion seat will do this). Swing the handlebars from side-to-side looking for smooth transition (ignoring a cable that might snag). If it feels tight on the outer reaches while loose and notchy in the centre, add $200 to the cost for steering head bearings. Without a centrestand, roll the bike forward and do the same thing.

    14. Brake pads:
    Easy with disc brakes - look along the disc and see if there is at least 2mm of brake material left before the backing plate hits the disc. Deep gouges in the discs are a bad sign. Drum brakes are harder to judge, though some models will have pad wear indicators on them.

    15. Electrics working:
    Check all the basics. Headlight high/low, indicators both sides, front and rear brake light, horn, with the engine running. No excuses.

    16. Electrics charging:
    Switch on the headlight and put your hand just in front of it. On low or high beam (sometimes you need the latter) you should see the light brighten noticeably when you raise the engine revs from idle to around 2000.

    17. Muffler check:
    Look for rust fairies, particularly on the underside of the muffler. Rev the engine and see if there's a rattle from the muffler indicating loose baffles.

    18. Abuse check:
    Run your hand under the footpegs, the lowest point on the headers, the lowest points of the fairing, the handlebar ends and the lever ends. Lots of scrapes and rough bits? A cupie doll to the reader that can guess what happened...

    19. Engine leak test:
    Look for oil leaks - some weeping from the top gasket on the engine is nothing to worry about and oil near the front sprocket is probably just over-enthusiastic chain-oiling. Look for major leaks elsewhere. If you see a green watery substance, you have a leak in the cooling system - a no-no.

    20. Suspension:
    Bounce both ends up and down with as much force as you can muster. Squeaks at the rear on monoshocks may indicate unhappy bushes, while oil leaks (lift fork gaiters if fitted) suggest a rebuild.

    » TAKE A ROAD TEST
    We recommend a road test although it's not always possible. If you turn up with a friend who is willing to hang around while you go for a ride, your chances of a spin are increased. Remember, if you bin it, you own it.

    What you're looking for is:

    1. Those steering head bearings - try them at walking pace, lock-to-lock. Does it turn smoothly? Now a little quicker in the turns (no lock-to-lock this time) - is it equally happy in left and right turns or is the frame bent?

    2. Brakes - a couple of gentle stops using the front then the rear levers in isolation will tell you if the discs or drums are warped. Pulsing levers or jerky stopping are bad news.

    3. Gearshift - does it work all the gears smoothly?

    4. Do the instruments work? A speedo that doesn't work is a basic roadworthy item.

    5. Did it accelerate smoothly and immediately drop back to a predictable idle? Could you restart it instantly?

    6. Who was in control - you or the bike? If it was the bike, will you overcome that problem?



    » SELF-PROTECTION
    There's a whole heap of stuff you can do to protect yourself from making a bad decision - which we've outlined here. Another useful ploy is to take along a mate who is a little experienced in the bike world, but who isn't an opinionated know-all smart-alec. Someone who can offer advice, and knows when to suggest you should calm down - no matter how red the bike is.

    Having bought far more than my fair share of used bikes over the years (She Who Suspects She Isn't Obeyed can confirm this), I can report that most of them have been good and a couple have been a total foul-up. That's what happens when you play rough games.

    So here's the drum: do the basic checks, try to make sure you have enough dough left over to fix the problems, pack your raincoat, don't take money from strangers and good luck to your family...

  • #2
    Found this guide can be helpful for some novice riders

    Comment


    • #3
      Pretty good tip's there, thank's for posting.

      Comment


      • #4
        no worries, I'm working on my carma lol

        Comment


        • #5
          hm.. i was such a noob when i bought my bike

          okay this is what happened

          1. tyres were bald - (didn't know about the wear mark)
          2. exhaust was loud - (thought was normal)
          then i got yellowed for bike.. new tyres, new muffler.. go to pits.. then

          3. no fork oil.. - (new to bikes so didn't know again)
          4. brake pads were zero and brake fluid was low and dirty
          5. oil filter was assembled incorrectly, pressure relief problem
          6. clutch was worn - (only found this when i accelerate heavily and found high gears slipping, then took it apart and saw it was indeed worn)
          7. barely 5000 kms later, chain needed replacing (couldn't have known this)
          8. carbies were out of balance
          9. valves were not set correctly
          10. horn was missing

          there's more but too depressing to remember

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by FEARLEZ5 View Post
            hm.. i was such a noob when i bought my bike

            okay this is what happened

            1. tyres were bald - (didn't know about the wear mark)
            2. exhaust was loud - (thought was normal)
            then i got yellowed for bike.. new tyres, new muffler.. go to pits.. then

            3. no fork oil.. - (new to bikes so didn't know again)
            4. brake pads were zero and brake fluid was low and dirty
            5. oil filter was assembled incorrectly, pressure relief problem
            6. clutch was worn - (only found this when i accelerate heavily and found high gears slipping, then took it apart and saw it was indeed worn)
            7. barely 5000 kms later, chain needed replacing (couldn't have known this)
            8. carbies were out of balance
            9. valves were not set correctly
            10. horn was missing

            there's more but too depressing to remember
            Haha, how much did it end up costing ya?

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm speechless

              Comment


              • #8
                Master. Fucking. Key.

                Some bikes that have immobilisers and ECU's or whatever, make sure you get a master key (typically RED) as well as a copy (typically BLACK). Some bikes even have a special code card to program the keys.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Michael/ View Post
                  Haha, how much did it end up costing ya?
                  to date.. just over 1500.. i overpaid for the bike i think, but at the time i thought it was a classic and fairly rare.. turns out it means hard to find parts for.. i can't even get oggy knobs for it..

                  tyres - 380
                  exhaust - 150
                  major service + parts - 600
                  minor service + new oil filter assembly - 150
                  new chain + fit - 185
                  new rear shocks - 480 (was leaking, dripping onto rear disc and tyre)

                  saddest thing is i'm not managing it properly.. so i might have to sell it if i don't improve

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Excellent guide. And a timely memory refresher...
                    Originally posted by Ferris
                    I love how PSB has turned into "Dear Martha"

                    Figure shit out yourselves, retards.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      3. Rego - Don't know a bike that is that expensive to Rego, my dearest is $224 for the Gixxer Thou

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Stoneville View Post
                        3. Rego - Don't know a bike that is that expensive to Rego, my dearest is $224 for the Gixxer Thou
                        I thought each class of vehicles had its own set rego?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          thanks for this! should be very helpful for us noobs
                          .

                          Originally posted by HotelBushranger
                          Talked to some chick today at the village that rides a GPX 250. Wasn't very friendly though, must have crabs.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Cheers for posting rokoktm. Is there a guide to selling a second hand bike?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by FEARLEZ5 View Post
                              saddest thing is i'm not managing it properly.. so i might have to sell it if i don't improve
                              Why not keep it and practice riding more, practice is the only way to improve.
                              Originally posted by browncow
                              Sometimes, I see you post, and I understand what all the individual words mean, but I have no idea what you're actually saying.

                              Comment

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