Clutch cable snapped.

[llamaloui]

Hello,

So, my clutch cable snapped on Monday. I've already ordered a new cable which will arrive on Thursday.

As for the repair and replacement, I will be going off the service manual. Replacing the cable routing and the hand lever should be fine.

As the bike stands now, it works (with the clutch perma engaged). I can crunch it into neutral, kick start it and get it into gear while rolling downhill.

What my concern is, lies the lever connected directly to the clutch.
Apart from the exploded diagrams, there isn't much more information I can see for the actual operation or movement action of that lever.
At the moment, when I try to pull that lever back and forth, it is completely slack. Should there be any springy resistance?
There is a coil spring wrapped around the base of that lever but there is one hooked end of the spring which I am unsure where it used to connect to.

Does anyone have advice on what small details I should be looking out for. When I pull the lever with my fingers, should I feel resistance at any point?

It would be much appreciated.


Cheers


(I'll upload some pictures soon for a better understanding)

[98kellrs]

Might help if you specify which make/model of bike...lots of people on tapatalk (me included) can't see it under your avatar.

[llamaloui]

Oops my bad.

The bike is a 2002 Yamaha WR426F.

[henrys]

Look up parts fiche for your model, that will have diagram of what goes where.

Very useful resource to aid any reassembly after dismantling, or after others have F%^&ed with it.

see Yamaha Wr426fp 2002 Clutch - schematic partsfiche

Look at part 28.

There is always free play when cable snapped or released, then when you reach the clutch release point it will be too stiff for your fingers too move, as not enough leverage/force without the cable and clutch lever.

[atifn79]

Dont you just hate it when your clutch cable makes that horrible "snap" noise when your out on a ride?
well, for those who are looking to get some bang for your buck try this.. run a few red lights and get your beast home pick up a soldering iron and some 60:40 tin solder. make sure you have rosin for this job too. If the cable snapped, it probably did it up by the lever, Take the end and twist all of the wires back together with a pliers or vice grips. then take the end of the cable and scoop up a generous amount of rosin. while doing this, let your soldering iron get nice and toasty (i prefer the standard ones that just plug in and heat up) get out your solder and put a nice big slug on the end of the cable. Try your best to keep the slug round and smooth. when you have a good sized slug on there (about the size of the original end that fits in the lever) let it cool down and assemble everything as it was. give the lever a good pull while looking at the cable. make sure that the slug moves so that the metal cabling stays straight and doesn't flex outward. this is why you keep the slug smooth. if the slug doesnt twist in there by itself, pull it back out and file it down until its smooth enough to do so. this is a really solid and cheap way to fix a broken clutch cable. This works with throttle cables as well. Just figured i would post this since it saved my ass last night when mine broke. I Had to go pick up a pretty girl on my bike and i couldnt let that stop me

[Ev]

Hello,
. I can crunch it into neutral, kick start it and get it into gear while rolling downhill.

Should never have to crunch it into gear.... just roll it so the drivetrain loosens, and voila it should change better than it would even with the clutch

[pnork]

I Had to go pick up a pretty girl on my bike

Oh, suuuuure you did...

[Biffer]

if all else fails... take a sample to ya nearest wrecker.. if they can't make another i'd be gob smacked

[Nero Diablo]

If you do a search there will be a number of threads on broken clutch cables and a number of shops that make their own should your local dealer be relying on just in time stocking method which never works for breakdowns.

Typically you route the cable through the bike and hook on the motor end first, wind the adjusters in all the way and then do the lever, typically you'll have to remove the lever from the perch to get the cable in and then refit. Similar to the lever the motor end will have a double loop with on of them slotted so you can fit the cable in a similar way to the lever.

As to been able to hand turn the lever at the motor end the clutch itself will have a massive amount of resistance that you won't be able to turn by hand (they give you a lever for a reason) however this will be only over a very short period of travel (oddly the same distance your lever will pull the cable through). If its the standard cam arrangement which is found on most bikes. With no cable there will be a lot of free play in the cam which normally relies on the cable to hold it up against the point of actuation this free play allows for adjustment of the cable, variations in manufacture and clutch pack wear and is normal.

As to crunching into first and the like if you can avoid it I wouldn't ride it till you get the cable replaced it will be doing your gearbox no favours.