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Latest toy - Cruise Control Install

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  • #31
    Just for Gryphen, copypasta the original post with new image links.
    Originally posted by me
    Latest toy - Cruise Control Install
    This is something I've wanted to do for ages. Had throttle locks on my last three bikes but they never behaved in windy or hilly terrain.

    Finally pulled my finger out and bought an AP60 cruise control unit from Auto One.

    Reasonable instructions - I'd put one in my car before, this should be no different. Right? Ha!

    Step one - fairings off, tank up.


    Airbox out, make some room and have a look. Don't forget to cover the throttle flaps with some clean rag.

    Where's the vacuum servo going to live? Eventually found a spot, and a bolt which fit. Tucked neatly under the throttle body. It's the black thing with the white sticker on it.


    There was a blocked off stub of a vacuum line already hanging off the throttle body, so I just used that. Easy! The servo's throttle cable (not seen here) runs pretty much around the engine in a gentle loop and back to the throttle cable cam.
    This was my first attempt - same as the setup in my car. Just piggybacks on the "on" cable.


    Next the keypad. Of course, they're not waterproof. But now at least it's weatherproof. Probably. Thanks to one of the bags that the bits of the cruise came in, cut to shape and heatshrunk over the panel then taped in place.


    Where did I leave my brain? Just behind the instrument cluster, where most of the bike wiring I needed to hook into collected in one place.


    Unit needs to tap into power, ground and brake light. I used those crimp/cut connectors which just slide past the insulation. Much quicker and easier than cut/strip/twist/solder/tape. Neater too. And I can remove them easily if I ever want to remove the cruise from the bike.


    Of course, you get a loom with the controller which is designed for a car - long distance stuff. With connectors on the end. Rather than chop/solder etc I just bundled the excess and cable tied it. What? Use a cable tie for TYING CABLE? What will he think of next?


    The cruise control came with its own speedo pickup, designed to go with a couple of magnets somewhere on the tailshaft of a car. I didn't want to be hanging that kind of crap off my bike when I already had a perfectly working speedo sensor from the factory. So I tapped in. Turns out the cruise control brain is a little greedy signal pig and, when it was plugged in, my actual speedo would not read anything at all. Ended up fixing it by chopping the connector lead for the speedo line and placing a 100k resistor in series to up the input impedance of the brain. Little thingy on the third leg back from the connector.


    Now everyone was happy and I could take my nekkid busa with crooz for a little ride around the block...



    Holy shit!

    Set it at 60km/h. Immediately tried to throw me off the seat as it took off. Got to 90km/h and shut down, trying again to throw me over the bars. Slowed down to 60 where it took off again, and so on.

    Not, possibly, the ideal sensitivity setting...

    I called and emailed the distributor/importer and was pretty much told these things were not designed for bikes and would I please be so kind as to remove it from mine before someone got hurt. Stuff that, already put too much effort into this project, IT WILL WORK!

    Oh well, back to the drawing board. Throttles on bikes are twitchy. So how about I artificially reduce the sensitivity using a lever? It may just work. It DID just work. Pretty much extended the throttle cable 'cam' by putting a bit of plate over it, clamped into place with a couple of screws and connecting the servo throttle cable to the end of the plate instead of piggybacking the bike throttle cable. This took the crazy over-driving edge off the system.


    And a picture of the 'clamp' screw. Looks dodgy but doesn't feel like it's going anywhere...


    Time for a test ride. Off to Yanchep via Wanneroo Rd (Hi Bendito) with Megs on the back in case something went wrong again - it's nice to land on something soft.

    Absolutely superb. Smooth actuation, accurate tracking except at really low speeds (ie 50) where it was just a little bit surgy.

    Coming home though, I took the freeway. To Yanchep you're on 90 limits tops, so I thought here was a chance to try it with highway speeds. Uh uh, not happening.

    Curses!

    Nothing more than 90km/h, after that it just gave up.

    Then I twigged. The AP60 automatically cuts out at 180km/h - guessed by the pulse frequency coming from the speedo sensor. Obviously the zook sensor setup uses a higher frequency so the cruise is getting confused. Somehow I need to "divide by two" going into the cruise, ie give its brain only one pulse for every two coming from the sensor.

    Back to TCAG, the importer. "Yeah there used to be that function but we put it in firmware and you've used it already". Damn. I noticed (geek mode defcon 2 here) that there was a D-type latch chip on the controller board and had this fancy that I'd use an unused latch to do the divide by two.

    Careful analysis of the circuit showed that:
    a) This is in fact the function for which the chip was being used;
    b) the input to the chip was ALSO the input to the 'brain'
    c) nothing was connected to the output.

    HAHAHAHAHA whoops geek bitch. All I had to do was run the output of that chip into the brain instead of the direct signal from the sensor. And wait - there was even a jumper to do that bypass. So I bypassed it. (Look for J3 in the middle. That's all it took. )

    Back on the bike and off for a freeway test ride. It all works like a charm, fantastic stuff. No more worrying about speeding fines due to throttle creep, just set it and forget about it.
    Since then, I removed the shitty plastic film cover from the keypad, opened the keypad up, lined the back of the keys with a condom to keep it rainproof and put it back together. Heaps neater.

    Speaking of neater, after a couple of days where the thing just cut out with no warning, I cut back all the excess wiring and got rid of those horrible piggy back crimps, preferring instead to solder the leads into the loom properly.

    The dodgiest looking part of it - the clamp of the cable onto the throttle cam - hasn't given me the slightest problem in over 50,000km of riding.

    Booyah!
    "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

    Comment


    • #32
      Okay Starfish... you seriously owe me a mega-coffee for getting me to read all that... As far as electronics go.... I am LOST...
      Feed 'em to the pigs, Errol....

      Comment


      • #33
        Great write up CS. I have always wondered if you could fit one of those to a bike since I fitted one to my car about 6 years ago. Thankfully, my current bike already has one fitted.

        Comment


        • #34
          Short version, Gryphen, if you want cruise control on your bus:

          1. Buy an AP-60 cruise control from somewhere (repco etc).
          2. Book yourself and I a Sunday afternoon to bring it (and your bike) down to my place.
          3. Success!
          "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

          Comment


          • #35
            Sounds Awesome... will start planning
            Feed 'em to the pigs, Errol....

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by Captain Starfish View Post
              Funny you should mention this. The other half of the TC4013BP dual D type latch isn't used. So I could.
              I know this is a bit of a grave dig, but would you be able to explain to me how to achieve this?

              Reason being I have installed this on a 4x4 and used the speedo signal to feed the cruise control but even after cutting the black wire and bridging J3 it only works up to about 80km/h.

              Any help much appreciated

              Regards
              Simon

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              • #37
                Bridging J3 cut the divide by two into place. you could find the datasheet for the TC4013BP and, if the other half isn't used, cut the input to the used side and wire this one inline. Might make more sense once you see the datasheet.
                "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Captain Starfish View Post
                  Bridging J3 cut the divide by two into place. you could find the datasheet for the TC4013BP and, if the other half isn't used, cut the input to the used side and wire this one inline. Might make more sense once you see the datasheet.
                  Thanks for the reply Captain Starfish

                  Unfortunately I am not an electrical engineer so I will need it explained to me in layman terms.

                  So I think this is what you are describing, I have to cut the J3 bridge and run one wire to a pin on the chip and another wire back to J3?

                  Something like this?



                  Regards
                  Simon

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Sorry mate, it's been what: three and a half years? I have no memory left of how the board is laid out or what would be required and don't have the bike anymore to look.

                    In your position, I reckon the best bet would be to grab the magnetic speed pickup, glue the magnets to your front uni joint and mount the pickup there instead of trying to use the electronic speedo pickup.
                    "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Captain Starfish View Post
                      Sorry mate, it's been what: three and a half years? I have no memory left of how the board is laid out or what would be required and don't have the bike anymore to look.

                      In your position, I reckon the best bet would be to grab the magnetic speed pickup, glue the magnets to your front uni joint and mount the pickup there instead of trying to use the electronic speedo pickup.

                      no worries mate, thanks anyway

                      The magnets have to go on the rear shaft as when its in 2wd the front drive shaft doesn't spin, and I am sick of replacing them when they fall off doesn't matter what I do, as soon as I hit any tracks they fall off and sometimes the sensor gets hit as well.

                      I might hook one of these up and see if it will slow the pulse down http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0376

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