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88 & 90 ZX10 projects ! :D

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  • #31
    Put the manifold rubbers in acetone for a couple of minutes.
    Remove and place in a plastic bag, spray Inox into bag.
    Leave for 5 minutes, good as new.

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    • #32
      Great info everyone, this is why I like PSB.
      If the boots aren't here by the weekend I'll try the suggested methods using brake fluid/ or the method above. See if she's better and replace them with the new ones when they get here

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      • #33
        I have one more day of work before two weeks off. Time that will be spent working on this hopefully.

        1) My order from the US for the carb rubbers has been cancelled as the company I ordered them off can't get them. I will instead try the acetone and inox suggestion as it seems like it will be cheaper than the wintergreen oil option. Hopefully that will get the carb rubbers onto the carbs.

        2) I'm going to be pulling the wheel and forks off to replace the fork seals, brake pads and hopefully get a new front tyre fitted. Will also flush the brakes and hydraulic clutch while I'm at it. I have the seals and brake pads already.
        More to the above, how would you recommend I make a fork seal driver tool? I'd rather not pay $300 for a piece of plastic from Kawasaki. Also, the front fork cylinder holder tool? Piece of rod with a nut welded on, eh?

        3) The front tyre on the old girl has a size of 120/70-17. Any recommendations on type and places to get them? I can't fit tyres so would need it fitted also.
        The rear has a 160/60-18 tyre. Same as above- recommendations? suppliers? This is a hard to find tyre.... I've looked at a few places already. The rear tyre is ok tread wise, but hasn't been ridden on in a very long time. Probably should get it replaced, right?

        Thanks everyone, more pics etc will come on the weekend.

        Comment


        • #34
          120/70-17 is a common tyre size, You will have no issues with tyres. It's down to your preference but may I suggest Michelin Pilot Road 2 or 3? These run in 120/70-17 fronts and a 160/60-18 rear.

          Ring bike tyre city or tyres for bikes for quotes

          I would replace both tyres

          If no joy with the shops, try ebay, looks like <$250 delivered for a rear and <$160 delivered for a front. Most shops will fit them for about $25-$50 per tyre
          my pics

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          • #35
            Maybe ask [MENTION=5020]Spock[/MENTION]. Think he's talked about tires for his RC before, and they have an 18" rear.
            The greatest excitement comes from besting who you were yesterday.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by 96 View Post
              Maybe ask Spock. Think he's talked about tires for his RC before, and they have an 18" rear.
              There is a Dunlop Roadsmart 2 available in 160/18. The previous Roadsmart is an excellent dual compound tyre (I have the 170 wide version on my rear wheel) and the version 2 is supposed to be even better.

              PS - those original Zx10s were awesome bikes. Good luck with the project!
              "Live Long and Prosper"

              Bayswater Martial Arts and Yoga Centre

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              • #37
                Awesome! I called around a bit more today and didn't manage to find any of the tyres you're talking of, however I did find a set of Pilot Road 3's for like $500 with fitting, which seems about right.... Ordering from the US, with shipping, is pretty much that so I think I'll go local.

                I'm officially on HOLIDAY! Tomorrow I will tackle the carb rubbers and clutch/brake flush etc. What fun!

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                • #38
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                  ^^Rear wheel. Was covered in red dust that seems to have etched the metal? Or rust?? The rim is polished around the outside radius except for the centre part which is more brushed/rougher. I want to get it shiny.... How?? Brasso, CLR, cut and polish didn't work.

                  I replaced the rear brake pads, put the airbox rubbers back on (though I will have to make a strap to fit to either side of the carbs around the airbox to pull it down tighter) and bled the clutch though I suspect I will need to rebuild the slave cylinder...

                  Once the rear wheel is shiny and I get new rubber on it, the rear will be done. Just need to pull the front apart next after all this is sorted.

                  EDIT: Just bought new front and rear sprocket and chain. Also a new rear disc. I've decided to go all out. I've found some tyres from an Oz supplier over East for $400 or so... Pirelli Angel ST. I've done some research and people seem to think highly of them. Quite a new tyre. Anyone here have any experience with them? $100 less than Pilot Road 3's. Am also preparing the credit card for 2 new front discs and a front lift for my Kaneg stand so I can work on the front next week. Should I replace the brake lines? They look ok but they are 25 years old.... :/

                  EDIT EDIT:

                  Some other pics- The completely screwed/rusted/gouged rear pads along with new EBC HH pads that will go all round. The rear rotor is kinda ok... I think it's warped a bit though. Not smooth, it's wavy along the contact lines. It's being replaced too.
                  Also the airbox complete with new air filter and recently renewed (kinda) rubber boots. I want to make a strap that pulls the top of the airbox down to ensure a better fit.... it is heaps better than it was though.
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                  And finally for tonight:
                  My gift to the internet and to anyone that ever has an oil leak problem from the balancer shaft oil seal on a 88, 89, 90 kawasaki ninja zx10 zx1000 B B1 B2 B3 tomcat (eat your heart out, google search!)-

                  The redundant part number you need to fix the leak is 92049-1174 .
                  The new part number that replaces it is 92049-1569 . You're welcome.

                  I shall be fixing the leak by the end of the week.
                  Last edited by SIKYSA; 24-11-2012, 10:36 PM.

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                  • #39
                    I know you're all extremely excited by this project, so I shall continue on with my progress. .....

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                    First pic: This is my solution to the airbox still being a bit loose. Cable ties and a piece of rubber tubing pulled tight. Does the trick. Will the pit inspection guys have a shitty about it? The original holding strap is still there too, this is just extra.
                    Second pic: The rear wheel after using some aluminium acid cleaner stuff. Works a treat. Bit of a scrub and some polish and it's much better. Not perfect though. Will need to heavily sand it back and do again to get a mirror finish.
                    Third pic: As I left her today. tyres, brakes, sprockets, front forks and fairings are all that's left I hope.
                    She is running a million times better than she was. After getting the airbox on properly (mostly) and sorting out a problem I had with an ignition coil she idles fine and revs freely. Such a satisfying thing to achieve. First proper project like this. So good

                    Here is a vid! Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

                    One thing though- I've discovered the ignition key can be removed while the engine is running. Will that be bad for the pits? I have another ignition barrel I can use... it just means I'll have a different key for the tank.
                    Last edited by SIKYSA; 25-11-2012, 01:20 PM.

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                    • #40
                      I warned you all I have two weeks off and am going to work on this as much as I can. Update:

                      I have ordered the following:

                      Rear brake disc- Factory in Thailand. Cheap, but seriously it's the rear brake. Hill starts and shopping centres... maybe 5% normal braking... rear rotor on there right now isn't actually that bad, within spec by 0.02mm. Might keep it on there for now.
                      Front brake discs- Metalgear Australia. Should be here by the end of the week.
                      Kaneg front lift stand- From Kaneg... so i can lift the front...
                      Chain and sprocket kit- Germany. Not imperative to install right away, but will in due course. (BTW- Those crazy krouts fricken love this bike. So many parts. Also I'm part German, so can use that term)
                      Tyres- Went with Michelin Pilot Road 3's front and rear. Fitted for $500, local dealer (believe it or not... I buy a lot of stuff from them though)
                      New balancer seal, new front sprocket washer, crush washers for the oil lines I need to remove to change the balancer seal (dealer)

                      All that stuff is on its way.

                      As for what I did today? I started working on the fairings. Feel free to give me opinions on what I should do/ recommendations/ experience etc.
                      I sanded everything back and used q-Bond in the cracks to join them together again (first pic). There are 4 different colours under the black. The fairings are messy, but usable. Much better than the originals that are literally shattered to pieces.
                      Then I sanded some more and applied some repco brand universal body filler (says it works with plastics) to the areas that I have fixed with the epoxy. (second pic)
                      The two panels are now drying out ready to be sanded back again tomorrow to a nice smooth finish. Then I figure I should start applying some spray primer? Sand it back, do it again... and repeat... and repeat again.... and so on until it's all even and smooth. Is that correct?? What should I do about the back sides of the panel, where it doesn't need paint? Is there a product I can use to make it a bit 'neater?'
                      The two side panels are in the pics but I will need to do the whole process to the nose fairing and belly pan also.

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                      Also- The other ignition barrel I have as spare you can remove the key while 'On' also... So not sure what to do if the pits dude will pick up on it...
                      Last edited by SIKYSA; 26-11-2012, 01:38 PM.

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                      • #41
                        [MENTION=8413]marras[/MENTION] is the man to ask about keys.
                        The greatest excitement comes from besting who you were yesterday.

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                        • #42
                          Yeah I'll see what he says... it may be a simple fix?

                          Also, what's the best way for me to match colours to the red/black fairings that survived the freeway rash? Paint wise, I mean? Is there a way to figure out the kawasaki paint colour codes and go and try and find something similar? Or can I get it matched made up somewhere ?

                          Dumb question- I have never done this before:

                          What type of paint do I need to for these plastic fairings? Do I need a special primer? A special type of paint or clear coat? What's the go? I really am completely clueless when it comes to all this type of stuff.


                          EDIT: Or should I not bother with paint, get the fairings nice and smooth all over then wrap it in vinyl?
                          Last edited by SIKYSA; 26-11-2012, 06:39 PM.

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                          • #43
                            You have a spray gun, or is this rattle can job?

                            2 pack is the way to go on the gun. Acrylic works well (for me) in rattle cans.

                            Paint matching. There will be a colour code, and you could get paint mixed to those specs, but given the age, I bet its faded.
                            The greatest excitement comes from besting who you were yesterday.

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                            • #44
                              No don't have a gun. Was going to try and do it with rattle cans... Saw a vid of an 89 re spray on youtube that looked good. Was hoping to mimic their efforts...

                              here is the vid:

                              Kawasaki 1989 Ninja ZX10 1000 Motorcycle Restoration 1988 88 89 - YouTube
                              Last edited by SIKYSA; 26-11-2012, 07:36 PM.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by 96 View Post
                                Paint matching. There will be a colour code, and you could get paint mixed to those specs, but given the age, I bet its faded.
                                Also- Where would be the palce to go to get the colour matched? Do I just need to grab a sample/piece of plastic with the same colour?

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