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  • TT500 project

    Well here is my tt500 with sr engine project that's been going on over ten years and I have just kick started again (no pun intended).
    It was originally set up with Husqvarna TE610 forks and triples via a steering stem tube machined up to take the TE clamps.

    But because all this fabrication occured without using a jig and a change of heart in general with the direction the bike was going i chopped it off at the neck and grafted an original front back on from a spare frame I had.

    The frame mods are numerous and exhaustive. The subframe was chopped off and a new one fabbed up out of chromoly tube.
    The engine has been rotated forward around the bottom mount meaning every engine mount has been chopped and redone.
    The front downtube mount is a different design altogether.

    The NSR swingarm was shortened years ago by 90mm and converted to twin shock. Thankfully I did this in a jig.

    The swingarm pivots were chopped out
    and redone in chromoly utilizing the nsr adjuster and a double plate type design.

    All the original mig welds have been run over with a tig or will be when done.

    Writing this I think I should rename this thread "grand dads axe".

    The wheels were from a cr500 apparently and were bought first before I even had a bike in mind to customize.

    The G3-S Racetech shocks were built specifically for the bike and combined with the wheels meant the bike just had to be built even if it takes another ten years cause I'll never get my money back on em!

    I'm looking for a set of CBR600 f1-f3 fork lowers to marry up to the VTR1000f stancions shown in the pics.
    I've got a SV650 caliper to use for the front.
    The seat is an IT Yamaha and the reason for the subframe mods. The tank is the stock TT500 alloy jobbie.

    The last pic is from when it had the 45mm Husqvarna front end on it.

    That's all for now.
    Hope you like it.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

  • #2
    looks Hawt as, what size piston are you going to run? the 90mm big bore just about everyone use's with these kind of builds or a more sensible size under?

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    • #3
      I love what you're doin wit the Zorst... Bore 86-89 is the go...eh? Torque monster...;-)
      " Imagination is the seed of life..."

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      • #4
        Thanks for the comments guys.
        Piston is a 87.5 Wossener. The barrel has been bored already for it.

        Some pics of the the rear tank mount. The alloy stub is machined out of some 7000 series hex bar. It will have a R-clip in the top of it to hold the tank down.

        The Brembo R6 caliper will be actuated via a cable. The temporary alloy piece shows roughly the idea I'm aiming for.

        A boss will be welded into the frame and a stainless lever will pivot on the back to reverse the force direction.
        The cable will pull on the lever and the lever will push on the MC pump.

        It's a complicated setup but running the MC in a more conventional position was impossible because of the oem TT brake pedal and footpeg.

        Keeping the stock pegs means the kickstarter operates as per OEM and doesn't have to be bent around with an oxy etc.

        I still want the frame to resemble a stock frame to a certain degree but look like a factory 'sport production' or 'works' jobbie.
        A bit like if the engineers were able to pick bits and pieces off the assembly line back in the day and build a race bike for some race series.
        Race track refugee comes to mind so plenty of lightening holes an lock wiring even though I want it as a roadie when done.

        The engine will be hotted up but to what degree I don't know yet. I want to have a completed rolling chassis before I turn my attention to the donk.

        Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          Awww man, I love these things! Awesome work putting a modern spin on a genuine classic, the stance of it looks tougher than Chuck Norris.

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          • #6
            I'm not sure what I'm doing exhaust wise yet. The mild steel header in the pics was made years ago and might not get used.
            This bike might be the one that I finally have a crack at titanium with.

            And seeing as we're talking exhausts here's a two into one I made for a mate of mine recently.
            It's for a 620 Monster he's converting back to a road bike after it's racing adventures.

            Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Fuck me drunk, there are some talented people around...that is just stunning. Hmmmm, with some minor mods that would pretty much fit my 851......what are you doing next weekend, lol.

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              • #8
                Making you an exhaust. lol.

                Some build pics to whet your appetite.
                I had to turn up an adapter to take the monster fuel pump in the 916 tank.
                6 and a quarter inch piece of billet had my little lathe screaming foul but I mowed through it in the end!


                Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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                • #9
                  (sigh)....just lovely work. I've a lil' lathe too, has been absolutely invaluable in knocking up so many doo dads over the years. But welding? Like yours? I can only dream....well done.

                  I'm really enjoying the project pic's, and getting some great ideas. Even just little stuff like the adapter and R-clip holding the back of the tank, so simple, so clever......fuck I wish I was smarter!

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                  • #10
                    The rear caliper sourced from the front of a CRF150R.
                    I remade the backing plate that the caliper slides on. I'm going to have to get a new disc and pads as the ones I have are to worn to get the dimensions of the alloy hanger right.
                    I can't decide whether to use m8 or m10 rosejoints for the torque arm. Anyone have any idea what will be strong enough?
                    M10 is shown in the pics.

                    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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                    • #11
                      This is the cable that will actuate the rear MC.
                      A bit of rework to do but it gives the general idea of what's happening.

                      I've got some CBR400RR fork lowers coming for the front. They have castings I like the look of (yes I'm that fussy about those sort of details) and after I did some trigonometry and measured the rake angle I should have some nice sportsbike geometry.
                      90-100mm of trail, 23-24 degrees of rake and approximately 1400mm wheel base.

                      Worked out from trawling the net that the triple clamps are XT600E and measure at 25mm offset.
                      Hopefully it handles as good as it looks.


                      Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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                      • #12
                        More work on the rear brake pivot arm.
                        There's alot of little details to get right which should make it work right, be easy to work on, be as light as possible and hopefully look good to.
                        The plate will of couse need to be shaped up and have an arrangement to pickup the nipple on the other end of the cable.

                        Hopefully getting some 7/8 chromoly pipe bent up on the weekend to finish the subframe loop.

                        Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          Update time. The CBR400RR fork lowers arrived. Mated right up to the VTR1000F stancions. Axel size is the same aswell.

                          Made up a rear brake pedal height adjuster and welded it to the frame.

                          Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            Made a template for the front caliper.
                            The SV650 caliper will mate up to the CBR400RR fork lowers nicely.

                            A few progress pics of the rear caliper hanger. Made out of 10mm plate and a machined up boss.
                            New pads and new rear disc so everything will be accurate when I was working out the dimensions.

                            Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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                            • #15
                              I had to hack up a good set of brake pads and bolt them to the front disc to get an accurate position so I can modify the front caliper to fit.

                              A pic of the caliper hanger prior to welding the boss into it and putting some lightening holes in it.

                              Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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