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  • Bike cuts out

    Well the '07 R1 has done it a few times now.

    Basically i'll be coming to a stop at an intersection or something and bike will idle really rough and lumpy idleing just above 1K and then just below, then if i slow down for another intersection within a couple of minutes as I pull the clutch in the engine will cut out. I just have to hit the starter and it'll start up. I've done about 14'000 and its only started doing it the last 3K or so.

    It doesn't do it all the time, sometimes it'll go days and be totally fine and others it'll do it twice in the day.

    Alot of guys on the R1 forum have had the same thing and say that adjusting the clutch seems to have solved it but i don't see how it would.

    Thought I'd ask here and see if anyone has any ideas before i take it back to the dealer and have a bitch.

    oh, and there is no idle screw its all done electronically.
    Those who risk nothing, do nothing, achieve nothing, become nothing.

  • #2
    throttle position sensor maybe? do you have a manual?

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    • #3
      Did you take it back for the TPS recall?

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      • #4
        No, no I didn't. Didn't even Know there was a recall.
        Those who risk nothing, do nothing, achieve nothing, become nothing.

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        • #5
          I know it was an issue on some of 'em... not sure on the '07.
          Might be worth checking out.

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          • #6
            Hmmm, might pop by causeways on the way home.
            Those who risk nothing, do nothing, achieve nothing, become nothing.

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            • #7
              07 R1 Glitches - Throttle lag - R1-Forum.Com

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              • #8
                there is no recall for TPS on the 07.
                Mine does it every now and then but i have noticed it only happens when i am about 15-20k's into reserve. In my case i think it is to do with fuel starvation under hard braking with low fuel.

                throttle lag doesn't effect australian models
                Atlas Performance, dyna pumps, " your name goes here"

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                • #9
                  View Recall - Yamaha Motorcycles (Various models) - Throttle Position Sensor

                  this is an issue with older R1's - might be something similar?

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                  • #10
                    Yeah Desmo, There was only a recall on the US models cos they were experiencing throttle lag (I aint' got that!).

                    I figured it has something to do with fueling. but its fine on hard riding whether its country rides or track days. Only when commuting.
                    Those who risk nothing, do nothing, achieve nothing, become nothing.

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                    • #11
                      Is the bike modded in any way (exhaust, perhaps)?

                      if it's fine when being flogged (and thus, getting bulk fuel dumped in), perhaps it's leaning out too much (for whatever reason) when coming to a stop, and rather than the over-run keeping it running, it just stumbles and dies when clutching it.

                      Just a bit of a guess... definitely sounds like some sort of fuelling issue... maybe if you have a power commander, back up your settings and have a fiddle? (see if increasing the low rpm fuelling helps?)
                      Last edited by thro; 12-11-2007, 01:33 PM.
                      “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

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                      • #12
                        Mine experienced this a little. What PCIII map you using (if one at all) - maybe we can compare rich/leanness for interest ?

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                        • #13
                          Oh one other thing that may be of interest - re: the clutch adjustment...

                          They could be onto something here.

                          Modern ECUs (my car, for example) do what's called "deceleration enleanment". Basically, on overrun (under certain conditions, ie, engine above 1500rpm, throttle position 0% - however on my ecu, being aftermarket, this is all programmable), my car runs injectors at 0% duty, effectively, no fuel goes in.

                          The clutch sensor may be telling the bike whether or not the wheels are going to keep the engine spinning. If the bike thinks "ok, clutch is out, we're doing 10km/h, the wheels will keep me spinning on over-run, i'll maintain fuel cut" it will possibly not inject any fuel - hence the engine dies - if the clutch is actually IN enough to disengage, but the sensor tells it the clutch it OUT.

                          I'm not sure thats how the yamaha ECU works, but if its like a modern car ECU that does over-run fuel cut... it *could* work that way.

                          So... the clutch thing could be worth looking into - maybe the clutch sensor is slightly dicky or needs adjustment...
                          Last edited by thro; 12-11-2007, 01:49 PM.
                          “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by thro View Post
                            Oh one other thing that may be of interest - re: the clutch adjustment...

                            They could be onto something here.

                            Modern ECUs (my car, for example) do what's called "deceleration enleanment". Basically, on overrun (under certain conditions, ie, engine above 1500rpm - however on my ecu, being aftermarket, this is all programmable), my car runs injectors at 0% duty, effectively, no fuel goes in.

                            The clutch sensor may be telling the bike whether or not the wheels are going to keep the engine spinning. If the bike thinks "ok, clutch is out, the wheels will keep me spinning on over-run, i'll maintain fuel cut" it will possibly not inject any fuel - hence the engine dies.

                            I'm not sure thats how the yamaha ECU works, but if its like a modern car ECU that does over-run fuel cut... it *could* work that way.

                            So... the clutch thing could be worth looking into.
                            Since it has electronic idle control you can slowly let the clutch out and the bike will hold 1250 rpm or there abouts. In the map i run i use up to 2000 rpm at 0% throttle an extra 10 points of fuel and up to 5000 rpm an extra 4 points of fuel and at 2% up to 7000rpm an extra 2 points. This i think is more to do with cooling the exhaust valves than anything else. but the idle control stays in play all the time.
                            Atlas Performance, dyna pumps, " your name goes here"

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                            • #15
                              Yeah, my car has electronic idle control too... it's just that if it *detects* that over-run should keep the engine spinning and the throttle is at 0%, it cuts fuel. I suspect this is where the problem could be - it's making that assumption incorrectly due to dodgy sensor of some sort...

                              I just suspect that maybe the guys who are claiming adjusting the clutch fixes it could be onto something... maybe Yamaha are using the clutch sensor in some way to determine whether or not over-run fuel cut is viable to run at that moment...

                              I'm not sure how you could prove my theory without hooking the bike up to a dyno and getting an AFR reading on decel, or somehow monitoring injector duty to see if it does run fuel cut...

                              Can the power commander software do this? if so, you could run the bike on a rear stand, run first gear, spin the wheel up to say 30km/h, back off (leave clutch out), and see if your injector duty goes to 0...


                              Maybe i'm off base... but if it did work that way it could certainly cause those symptoms...
                              “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

                              Comment

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