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  • Silkone Comp 4 10w-40

    hi to all,

    ive just changed the oil on my bike(zxr 250) and have used FUCHS Silkone Comp 4 10w-40 ...(the details are....electrosyntec technology /synthetic ester based 4 stroke engine oil for all high performance motorcycles)...... anyways the thing that got me worried was the colour and viscosity of this brand

    colour is dark brown with a very viscous oil.....

    my mate told me that on his cbr250rr the oil is actually golden in colour with a honey like fluidity.

    this is my the first time ive changed oil on any vehicle and would like to know what u guys think....should i drain it out and get a diffrent brand?

    cheers,
    hafiz
    yeeeeewwwwww

  • #2
    Here's a can of worms. Generally pick a brand of oil that mets what the manufacture recommends and change it regulary. On the whole a synthetic oil will have a lower observed viscosity at room tempreture and they are usually a lower rating 10W40 rather than 20w 50 which is what most mineral engine oils are.
    Makes them easier to pour in the colour will make 2/10ths of [email protected]#$ all difference its at the whim of the manufacurer and its marketing department and after the clutch has dumped its crap into it it will all look the same anyway. It sounds like you friend has mineral oil in his bike. Providing you changed the filter to get any remnants of whatever else was in there out and used new oil I wouldn't worry about it.
    Harvey community radio has a motorcycling show listen over the web here www.harveycommunityradio.com.au ,Facebook here http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Mo...34691323302991 yes I am the goose that hosts it.

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    • #3
      thanks nero diablo,,,,i didnt change the oil filter though... have to do it 2morrow . so what ur saying is mineral is better than synthetic?.

      in the service manual it says oil grade: SE,SF or SG class
      oil Viscosity SAE 10w-40,10w-50,20w-40 or 20w-50
      capacity , 2.6 liters

      which is the best?
      yeeeeewwwwww

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      • #4
        New oil is better than old oil, as long as it's the right weight range and clean.
        Doesn't matter if it's synthetic of mineral oil as long as it gets changed regularly.

        10w-50 is the best in terms of cold starts and hot weather riding, as it's thinner when cold, and doesn't thin out as much when warm.

        As said above, it doesn't really matter as long as it's one of those classes. I'd go 10w-50 or 20w-50 in summer, and a 10w-40 in winter, but it's personal choice and very subjective.

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        • #5
          Why are you changing your filter tomorrow? You know you have to drain the oil to remove the filter? So this means you'll have to put another lot of oil into the engine.

          Oh well, treat it like an expensive engine flush. Just make sure you go out and thrash the pants off it before you dump the oil, loosen all the crap so it gets picked up and drained out with the oil
          For LAMS information and resources - http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/foru...thread-156358/
          For LAMS discussion and to ask questions - http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/foru...thread-143289/

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          • #6
            thanks to all i really appreciate it....yeh i will have to do it again tommorow...but its a good learning experience.......again thank you
            yeeeeewwwwww

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            • #7
              The Silkolene Comp 4 is great oil. Yeah, it seems to be viscous when you pour it, but I think half of that is because it seems to cling to the sides of my funnel more than other oils.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by nevr2old View Post
                The Silkolene Comp 4 is great oil. Yeah, it seems to be viscous when you pour it, but I think half of that is because it seems to cling to the sides of my funnel more than other oils.
                The rock oil synthetic I run in the VOR always seems to run like water the Agip synthetic isn't a lot different. Beats the crap out of pouring in three litres of Penrite enduro which is something like 20w 60 mineral (ran it in the road guzzi). Filling up the funnel securing it so it stays upright with around half a litre then going to find something else to do while it drains in. Yes I know I can stick in the microwave for 10 minutes to get it to run quicker (pays to be single to do these kind of things) not sure about the metal backed stickers though.
                Harvey community radio has a motorcycling show listen over the web here www.harveycommunityradio.com.au ,Facebook here http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Mo...34691323302991 yes I am the goose that hosts it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by fizz View Post
                  my mate told me that on his cbr250rr the oil is actually golden in colour with a honey like fluidity.
                  The honda oil (HP4? the synth stuff) i stuck in the 600rr last time was fairly dark brown too, so i wouldn't stres over the colour too much.

                  Castrol/mobil seems to be pretty light golden colour like beer....
                  “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

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                  • #10
                    AMSOIL or Mobil 1 4t for me...

                    Buy Silkolene direct from FUCHS on Abernethy Road and save some $$$.


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                    • #11
                      mmm intersting. Derek Ball uses and recommends Motul 300V Factory 10W40

                      Costs around $50 for 4 litres

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by flashpixx View Post
                        mmm intersting. Derek Ball uses and recommends Motul 300V Factory 10W40

                        Costs around $50 for 4 litres
                        Last time I checked this stuff was $100+
                        Which is sad, I wanted it because it is (or was) a wicked green colour.

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                        • #13
                          I like Motul 300V, it's green and smells like candy.

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                          • #14
                            Comp 4 is semi synthetic, great oil that i have used for years. Way better than the mineral oils i've used (that are honey coloured and same consistency lol) giving far better protection without the side effects some road bikes suffer with full synthetic (model specific). If ever changing type of oil tho, replace the filter
                            yes, i am ignorant
                            yes, i am a prick
                            no, i don't care
                            you make me sick

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                            • #15
                              anything fluro green or pink, maybe a yellow, its all good, personally i use the "colours of the bow" racing oil as used by team homo racing team............because if anybody know the best lubricants to use, its them...

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