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Changing motor oil brands as Motul is bankrupting me.

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  • Changing motor oil brands as Motul is bankrupting me.

    We all know the importance of motor oil in our increasingly highly strung motorcycle engines, and Motul has positioned itself very comfortably on the top of the pile for when it comes to motorcycle oils.

    I'm curious to know what other brands people have gone for with good, bad or mixed results.

    Looking at the critical aspects when it comes to bike oils all I can find that they are suitable for wet clutch operation and conform to JASO MA.

    I've witnessed bikes exploding using Shell oils, I'm looking at Penrite's range of oils $155 for 8L Fully Synth Ester compared to Motul 300V $130 for 4L.

    Anyone have any horror stories or stories of success?
    Trying to think of a wise and sincere signature quote, but the only words that leap to mind are, "TITTY SPRINKLES"

  • #2
    There was a post/thread I can't find, sure it was Oils Ain't Oils, that exhorted the use of Penrite Diesel oil as it met all the usual standards & didn't have any of the stuff bikes can't cope with, like teflon.

    A few Penrite options weight & tech wise: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/sh...sz=12&start=12
    .. and thats Racer # 193 to y'all; my fabulous sponsors (who all do good shit) are: Graeme Fleming IT Consultants, Vision Image, Pacific Safety Wear, Excess Power Equipment, Pro Photo Booth

    .. and according to Sean'o: 'get the Kwaka (never thought i would say that!)'

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    • #3
      Even the lesser oils are fine I have found....as long as they are changed regularly. Ususally I do my semi synthetic every 5000 to 7000ks Currently I am using Penrite 15/50 but Yamaha recommend their brand...bit like John West rejecting the rest I suppose.
      Smoke me a kipper...I'll be home in time for breakfast

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      • #4
        I remember the oils aint oils thread, but rather than digging up old shit, figured I'd inject some new life into the forum again.

        I've pulled the trigger on some Penrite, dedicated full synth motorcycle oil for the ZX10R (the cheapest one to rebuild should I grenade it) and will see how we go on the Collie double header. I dropped Motul 7100 out (it was still slightly red in colour) so way too early but I felt the bike was running rougher on the 7100 than it did on the 5100 that was previously in it.

        I have also gone and grabbed a 10L tub of Diesel Penrite to throw into the Hilux as that's over due as well.

        Fuck me though dropping $300+ in oil, brake fluid (still use Motul RBF660 as I boil anything lower spec), filters and also another 500 odd on a set of slicks this week I may have to resort to making sailors on shore leave feel good to pay for all this.
        Trying to think of a wise and sincere signature quote, but the only words that leap to mind are, "TITTY SPRINKLES"

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        • #5
          Over the years of reading MC forums, one common thing apart of each having their own oil thread was that any brand name oil will be still performing as expected way past their "change by" date The problem was always the contaminants introduced or created by those highly strung engines. It was more important to have a quality filter than change the oil at the prescribed interval. I recall seeing charts showing the lubricating/cleaning properties of various oils over time staying pretty much the same (I have an problem with the time based oil changes in modern engines that are well sealed, so my interest was longevity based on time not miles travelled), and that the recommendations for replacing them were based on estimating the contaminants introduced by the average user.

          I don't think you can go wrong if you use a brand name from a reputable reseller, even if you race the engine.

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          • #6
            I use Penrite HPR Diesel in everything.

            JASO MA Spec.
            In sterquiliniis invenitur.

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            • #7
              I have run Silkolene Pro4 in my drag bike for ever and have had no problems. The honda gets what ever is the best value at the time as its old and doesn't get ridden as hard or as often now.
              That said a really nice bloke gave me some Yamalube 10-40 full synthetic which is a great oil for what I paid for it
              RR VRT #100
              Sponsors Wanted.
              Thanks to www.superbikesupply.com.au and ProFlow for assistance.
              A 1K throttle is like a hot blond, you really want to hit it but you are afraid of the consequences :black eye:

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              • #8
                I take the view that recommnded oil change intervals are based on the oil companies wanting to sell more oil.
                Smoke me a kipper...I'll be home in time for breakfast

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                • #9
                  For what its worth, I've used Elf semi synth in the last 3 bikes,definitely not a racing application tho. API SL, JASO MA2 10w 40 rated. Each bike the box felt "better" than the oil that was in them, 2 of them were from first oil change onwards.

                  The GSXR i'm not sure what the guy had in it but but the Elf changed the fricton point and feel of the clutch, made the whole box tighter and positive and solved a vague 5-6 change, its like it wound the clock back. Motor was a little noisier overall but it rides so much better, like it should. The bikes manufacturer spec doesnt mention anything about synthetic oil so yeh....

                  Ive thought about putting the JASO MA specced Penrite in it but theres something about putting a car oil into a high rev bike motor my petty small minded brain cant get past. The Elf price wasnt much more, can be a bit hard to find though
                  I cant help it if your perceptions don't match my reality


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                  • #10
                    Penrite do bespoke bike oils, over the car oil, which is considered 'ok' for bikes
                    Trying to think of a wise and sincere signature quote, but the only words that leap to mind are, "TITTY SPRINKLES"

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                    • #11
                      I have used Total Oils in my motorcycles. It was a great oil, was motorcycle specific, and cheap. Rally teams use Total oils, and they have been around for decades. They have mineral, semi- synth and full synth in a couple of thicknesses.

                      I got mine from Golden West Lubricants in Maddington (I think they might sell Elf as well). They were a nice mob to deal with. I still use Total oils in my Peugeot 207 GTI - but being French, they recommend Total anyway, and Golden West are happy enough to sell 1 bottle to me without problems. If you use enough I would suggest you could probably set up an account and get better than 'cash-sale' pricing.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Hati View Post
                        . It was more important to have a quality filter than change the oil at the prescribed interval. I recall seeing charts showing the lubricating/cleaning properties of various oils over time staying pretty much the same (I have an problem with the time based oil changes in modern engines that are well sealed, so my interest was longevity based on time not miles travelled), and that the recommendations for replacing them were based on estimating the contaminants introduced by the average user.
                        Synthetics are better at keeping the lub/cleaning properties than mineral oils.

                        Filters don't always filter all particles and thats why oil changes are required. Imagine a particle with dimensions 1 micron x 1 micron x 20 micron.. it can fit thru a 4 micron filter if it arrives at the right angle. You would be suprised at the amount of contaminants (copper, lead, iron) that you would find in the oil.

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                        • #13
                          Distance oil changing is a con.
                          each and everyone of us use a bike differently and that may change for each and everyone depending on the seasons.
                          Synthetic oils although they give great lube and cleaning properties breakdown quicker with heat or if used in Euro bikes fills with metal filings.
                          My rule of thumb.
                          Change the oil when I notice a more resistance in gear changes.
                          I used Elf for 2 to 3 years, although it was cheap as chips I threw it out Summer or Winter at 3.5k.
                          These days I use Motul basically because it is in my face. It hangs in there over the Winter longer but not that much longer in the Summer.
                          I moved between 7100 back to 5100 as 7100 life was no longer than 5100 and costs more.
                          i believe we are all victims of advertising in the Motosport we follow and there are extremely good and cheaper options out there if we take the time and look.

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                          • #14
                            I don't know how brand X oil can cause an engine to explode..Any theories?

                            If you do decide to change brands and you are interested in engine life, it may be worthwhile to get some oil sampling done.

                            That way you can compare Motul after x number of kays with brand abc after x number of kays. In saying that, (from my understanding) if you do change brands, it is not worthwhile sampling the first new oil batch as changing brands can increase element wear. This then reduces after the first change.

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                            • #15
                              I'm using the Penrite stuff that I think you're talking about TurboR1 - https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...-100-pao-ester

                              I think I'm on about my 3rd change of it in my 2010 Z1000 and it's quite decent, no complaints at all. Bike doesn't get daily'd anymore either so each ride it gets quite the Italian tune up, feels like the harder I ride it the smoother it gets, if that helps.

                              I use the grade under that, still 10w40 fully synth just not the 'factory racing' pao ester one for the Z800 commuter that has a decidedly more leasurely and under-stressed life.

                              I've had Motul 7100 in the Z1000 before and I remember it running beaut, and the shifting being super slick and nice, never treated it to 300v. For the same reasons as you I think the point of diminishing returns plays a big part here and the Penrite stuff is 90%+ as good for a lot less money, I generally wait for specials and get the 4L of factory racing at $50-60 and the non-factory racing at $40-50
                              Originally posted by boeman
                              Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

                              I mean fuck, im not a selfish cunt.
                              Originally posted by Chuck Steak
                              Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (can’t decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.

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