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Changing motor oil brands as Motul is bankrupting me.

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  • #16
    My 05 1200s bandit has done around 77000kms and is just as strong as when it was 1st run in, early in the piece Jules 77 (I think that was his name) recommended Mobil1 4t for motorcycles which was available at wholesale prices from Statewide oils in Welshpool. I think the original weight was a 10w50 which was great for a low km air/oil cooled beast but after some time they changed to stocking a 10w40 which I thought was a bit thin for an air/oil cooled machine especially in an Aussie summer.

    Recently I have been using Penrite pao ester 15w50 and I love the stuff, Penrite claim that the viscosity does not thin as the oil gets older and in my experience on a hot summers day the motor feels sweet at any temp. Save yourself some bucks and get it when Supercheap have one of their 20% off days, probably best to go the grade recommended by frenchie above. .

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    • #17
      Originally posted by GreenMeanie View Post
      Synthetic oils although they give great lube and cleaning properties breakdown quicker with heat or if used in Euro bikes fills with metal filings.
      This is spot on, Synthetic oils are great at what they do, but don't like contaminants and break down much quicker. Clean fresh oil that meets the spec required is all an engine needs.

      I have always been a Penrite fan in all my cars and bikes. Australian made, reasonably priced and available everywhere, why wouldn't you use it?
      Knowledge without mileage equals bullshit.

      "The feelings mutual so kindly fuck off"

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      • #18
        Originally posted by datsikk View Post
        I don't know how brand X oil can cause an engine to explode..Any theories?

        If you do decide to change brands and you are interested in engine life, it may be worthwhile to get some oil sampling done.

        That way you can compare Motul after x number of kays with brand abc after x number of kays. In saying that, (from my understanding) if you do change brands, it is not worthwhile sampling the first new oil batch as changing brands can increase element wear. This then reduces after the first change.
        Changing brands doesn't necesserily increase wear, but you can get a chemical reaction from the mixed additives, of which there are a gazillion combinations and unknown reactions. In big diesel engines with oil coolers you can get leaching of the copper lining into the oil, but its not wear. Not something you will see on a bike. The first few samples after switching brands will simply show mixed additives as when you drop the oil you don't get every drop out each time so it may take a couple of oil changes. The main thing with using oil sampling is one single sample won't tell you much (other than dirt/water or fuel contaminants), especially on bikes where there isn't a lot of history or manufacturer information. So you have to build up a history so you can trend the levels of wear.
        Knowledge without mileage equals bullshit.

        "The feelings mutual so kindly fuck off"

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        • #19
          I have used Penrite HPR5 full synthetic for many years on my bikes & cars dating back to the "oils ain't oils" post It's great value for the price & it's Australian. Never had an issue but I always ensure I change oil on a regular basis, usually at twice the recommended interval.

          I suspect a lot of the other players in the market are using clever marketing to charge exorbitant prices for their products.

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          • #20
            Penrite for no other reason than habit.

            Change interval more based on smell, feel and colour than time or distance.

            ​​​​​
            The crux of the biscuit is the apostrophe.

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            • #21
              I must say, I'm pretty impressed having run the Penrite on the ZX10R in Collie for two days coaching on the track last weekend. The engine ran smoother and noticeably quieter from the top end after dropping out Motul 7100 and chucking in the Penrite.
              Trying to think of a wise and sincere signature quote, but the only words that leap to mind are, "TITTY SPRINKLES"

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              • #22
                Supercheap have 30% off Penrite for club members this weekend, including bike oils... typical.. just bought all I needed.
                Trying to think of a wise and sincere signature quote, but the only words that leap to mind are, "TITTY SPRINKLES"

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                • #23
                  I've been running Penrite for years now, as for a long time they were on of the few that did a 10W60 that wasn't an obscene price per L. I was for a while buying 20L drums of Penrite, but the smaller stuff has been on special so often that easier to just grab a couple 4-6L when I need it.

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                  • #24
                    Another vote for Penrite been using HPR10 or 5 for years in hard conditions.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by BusaSteve View Post
                      I take the view that recommnded oil change intervals are based on the oil companies wanting to sell more oil.

                      Depends. On my bikes i can (could, back when i had a shorter commute) definitely feel the gearbox is less slick around 4000km in. Used to do mine every 3000 but do higher km commuting now so every 6k.

                      Oils are cheaper than engines.
                      TurboR1 : I’ve run Honda HP4 (synth) in my 4 strokes for hundreds of thousands of KM and it hasn’t given me any grief. It’s also not expensive.

                      I’m running Penrite 2T in the RGV at the moment, as that’s what the guys at Retro Moto put in it....
                      “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by GreenMeanie View Post
                        Distance oil changing is a con.
                        each and everyone of us use a bike differently and that may change for each and everyone depending on the seasons.
                        Synthetic oils although they give great lube and cleaning properties breakdown quicker with heat or if used in Euro bikes fills with metal filings.
                        My rule of thumb.
                        Change the oil when I notice a more resistance in gear changes.
                        I used Elf for 2 to 3 years, although it was cheap as chips I threw it out Summer or Winter at 3.5k.
                        These days I use Motul basically because it is in my face. It hangs in there over the Winter longer but not that much longer in the Summer.
                        I moved between 7100 back to 5100 as 7100 life was no longer than 5100 and costs more.
                        i believe we are all victims of advertising in the Motosport we follow and there are extremely good and cheaper options out there if we take the time and look.
                        What have you based the above on?

                        From http://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/.../synthetic-oil

                        "Synthetic oils generally perform better than mineral oils in the following respects:
                        • better oxidation stability or resistance;
                        • better viscosity index;
                        • much lower pour point, as low as –50°C for some synthetics;
                        • lower coefficient of friction;
                        • better high-temperature stability and protection against breakdown;
                        • better low-temperature viscosity; and
                        • extended life
                        ."

                        The only advantage mineral oil has over synthetic is price. Nothing wrong with that, if it does what you need it to do then you're miles in front.
                        Last edited by slowpoke; 14-09-2019, 03:39 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by slowpoke View Post

                          What have you based the above on?

                          From http://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/.../synthetic-oil

                          "Synthetic oils generally perform better than mineral oils in the following respects:
                          • better oxidation stability or resistance;
                          • better viscosity index;
                          • much lower pour point, as low as –50°C for some synthetics;
                          • lower coefficient of friction;
                          • better high-temperature stability and protection against breakdown;
                          • better low-temperature viscosity; and
                          • extended life
                          ."

                          The only advantage mineral oil has over synthetic is price. Nothing wrong with that, if it does what you need it to do then you're miles in front.
                          Experience. Servicing and rebuilds.
                          I can feel when my own bikes gearboxes need an oil change.

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                          • #28
                            The article does state ‘better’, does not state ‘will not’ or ‘doesn’t’.

                            Up until ‘88 I used a Castrol R in every bike I owned.
                            Relatively cheap at the time. By memory it was around the $40 mark for 4 or 5lts.
                            Sometime in ‘88 or ‘89 Castrol renamed it ‘Syntron’ or something like that, put in 2lt containers and near tripled the price of a litre. (Around $80 for 2 x 2lts).
                            I was devastated.
                            Pete Wallace of Mack 1 fame did some investigating and found an info sheet on results from tests a Uni in QLD carried out. It just so happened Mobil had released ‘Mobil 1’ fully synthetic.
                            The results showed Mobil 1 meet or exceeded Castrol R and I could buy Mobil 1 for $38 5lts at K Mart.

                            Mobil 1 came the norm for me for probably 4 years.
                            Then it’s price soared with popularity.

                            Regardless of cost or who’s name was on the oil I can’t often get the 5k out of the oil before I feel the gear shifting gets less slick. Sooner during the summer months than the cooler months and very noticeable after a good long hard country run during the summer.

                            ’Bottom’ line, you will be arsed fucked by not looking at alternatives as oil companies aren’t afraid to gouge on a product they have convinced the Sheeple they need.

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                            • #29
                              I always ran 5100 until the kwackas started having rough shifts, switched to 3100 and have never looked back, I change 3000km on road bikes, 1500 on dirt and used to change every second trackday when I was younger/fitter/healthier/gave a fuck.
                              I now sell the bike if it is due tyres/rego/service/wash.
                              yes, i am ignorant
                              yes, i am a prick
                              no, i don't care
                              you make me sick

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by GreenMeanie View Post

                                Regardless of cost or who’s name was on the oil I can’t often get the 5k out of the oil before I feel the gear shifting gets less slick. Sooner during the summer months than the cooler months and very noticeable after a good long hard country run during the summer.

                                ’Bottom’ line, you will be arsed fucked by not looking at alternatives as oil companies aren’t afraid to gouge on a product they have convinced the Sheeple they need.

                                Yeah i think distance/time based servicing is for people less in tune with how their machinery behaves, and also a hard limit on when it really should be done, as specified by the manufacturer, "or else we won't honour your warranty!".

                                On bikes though you can definitely tell when the oil is getting tired via the gearbox shift quality, and on machines with a wet clutch that shares oil with the engine (like... almost every fucking road bike out there - unlike almost every car out there), not changing oil reasonably frequently is just asking for trouble.

                                Do you really want bits of gear-set, clutch friction material, etc. circulating about your engine? Because that's what you get from a shared gearbox/engine oil combo, and especially so with a wet clutch setup.
                                “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

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