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Dot 4, in a Dot 3 marked bike brake reservoir?

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  • Dot 4, in a Dot 3 marked bike brake reservoir?

    Any drama's using Dot 4 fluid on a older master cylinder setup that has stamped into the top of it - 'Dot 3 only etc"??

    Also, I ordered a set of those 'speed bleeder' things from ballards. They are taking forever to come in. I assume its some sort or non return, or check valve. In case the things dont come with any instructions, whats the go with them? crack them off 1/2 a turn, then pump the lever a few times? These things any good?

    Tah
    Increasing my carbon footprint - one 500 @ a time...

  • #2
    please correct me if im wrong

    but a dot 4 brake fluid does everything a dot 3 brake fluid does and more (one example i can think off is usb 2 versus 1), only thing i would do is replace the old fluid if you can (keep bleeding them until you put through 1/2 a litre or so)

    never heard of speed bleeder or ballards for that matter, but you can get diy bleeding kits (approx $5-$10) from the likes of kmart etc etc. consits of a little hose connected to a silver thing, in the silver thing is a spring and ball bearing that acts a check valve and the other end just pushes on to the bleed nipple on your calliper (make sure its clean first, use a clean rag with a bit of brake fluid to wipe of any dirt etc)

    having said that though you can just get a bit of air line hose from a fish shop and push one end onto your brake calliper bleed nipple and have the other end sitting in some new brake fluid that is below the calliper, loosen the bleed nipple 1/4 of a turn and keep applying the brakes (MAKE SURE THE MASTER DOSENT RUN OUT OF FLUID OR THEIR IS ALOT OF BLEEDING TO BE DONE)

    hope this helps


    ps if you want a hand just let me know and i can come to you, cant guarantee anything but another set of hands can help though, this goes for everyone (and no smart comments either people )
    Every one has a story.....

    http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/foru...updates-82338/

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    • #3
      i've heard of people putting the other end of a bleeder hose into the master cylinder and then just pumping away (as whatever you lose goes back into the mc. u just need to top up enough to fill the tube....
      anyone tried this?
      No amount of genius can overcome a preoccupation to detail.



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      • #4
        You would need a long bit of pipe, would just be easier picking up a bleeder kit, super shite auto sells em, and its much less messy if the hose falls off
        Nitrous is like a hot girl with STD's, you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences!

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        • #5
          bleeder kit? wots that do? (i've always up until now use a bit of vinyl tube a spanner and an empty coke bottle )
          No amount of genius can overcome a preoccupation to detail.



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          • #6
            The bleeding kit is what some of the others have posted, a short piece of tube you push over the nipple on the bleed point, and has a one way valve in it to stop the air going back up the pipe. They call them one person bleeder kits as you can do the whole thing on your own in a few minutes, means you dont need one person on the brakes, and one opening and closing the bleed nipple (and the chance of air getting back in the system is HEAPS lower).

            I know a couple of mechanics who swear by them, they are just a really simple bit of kit that saves so much effort.

            Now, I just need to get a set for myself and I will be fine!!
            Nitrous is like a hot girl with STD's, you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences!

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            • #7
              Yep no worries. Thanks for the posts.

              As far as the tube goes, I use a tube with a bolt stuck in the end of it, and then a fine slit in the tube just before the end of the bolt, and stick that into a jar of fluid. I am hearing that the dot 4 into dot 3 systems is cool too. Good.

              These speed bleeder things are supposed to be pretty good. I'll post up some thoughts when the things arrive. Supposed to turn the task into a 1 person piece of cake.
              Increasing my carbon footprint - one 500 @ a time...

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              • #8
                i usually manage it on my own, but it's not much fun
                it's even hard with 2 people when doing it on a cage...
                No amount of genius can overcome a preoccupation to detail.



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                • #9
                  Finally turned up some info on dot 3 & 4 etc. This is copied off a site :

                  What is the difference between DOT3, DOT4, DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids?

                  DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are glycol based compounds that are compatible with one another. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and should never be mixed with DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT5.1. DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids may damage painted surfaces and DOT 3 and DOT 4 have lower boiling temperatures than DOT 5 (DOT 5.1 has the same boiling point as DOT 5). Furthermore, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids are "hygroscopic", which means they absorb moisture from the air. This causes the fluid to turn dark, indicating that it is time for the brake fluid to be replaced. DOT 5 fluid will not damage paint, has a boiling temperature in excess of 500ƒ F, and is not hygroscopic.
                  Increasing my carbon footprint - one 500 @ a time...

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                  • #10
                    just wondering, if DOT5 is so great, why did they go and make a 5.1, which has all the same disadvantages of previous fluids?
                    Respect is earned, not enforced.

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