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Removing valves without a spring compressor

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  • Removing valves without a spring compressor

    Any secret tricks? Consensus on the internets seems to be if you don't have a compressor, socket and hammer and just whack it. I don't know how I would reinstall the valves though if I used that technique.

  • #2
    That's a quick and effective way of removing the valves. Make sure you support the head with a block of wood on each end of the head with some rag on each one to minimise any bruising on the face. Also make sure when the valve lifts from the seat, that it wont hit the wood or bench....... disasterous! You can bodge up a compressor out of a suitably sized G-clamp or lend one off me for the day and do it easy.
    PS: Don't whack it too hard if you go down the socket/hammer road. Easy to damage guides/retainers/stem seals......
    Last edited by GD Engineering (Gavin); 06-08-2009, 06:29 PM. Reason: Something to add


    • #3
      Got it sorted, using a block of wood and a nail to hold it at the right angle, and another person helping out. What's a good way of cleaning the valve heads/exhaust ports etc? I lightly brushed the valve with a hardish brass brush and don't think I wanna do it again. Soak the whole head block in some sort of chemical cleaner?


      • #4
        i Have a 1/2 drive about 19mm socket with with a wide slot cut in, it its pretty easy to compress the spring and get the collet out.


        • #5
          I use a rotary wire brush mounted on an 8" grinder to clean the valve faces/tulips but you have to be careful doing this with coated or uncoated titanium valves as they can be de-brided easily, your valves are steel so don't be scared...... De-carb chambers with a mild ( less than .5mm ) gauge rotary wire brush but again, be careful not to "tear" the surface from vigourous brushing, especially in close proximity to gasket surfaces. Ports can be done with pencil-style wire brush mounted in a Dremel or small drill if you're really desperate. Again vigourous use will tear the casting in susceptible areas. If you don't have a brush, you can use a fine-choked double-cut burr ( flame or egg shaped ) and "flap" the port out afterward with a suitable grade of sandpaper, don't use a drill to do this ...... it'll make a mess of the port. Check your valves closely for pitting on the face and that the seating area is not recessed into the 45 degree face, if yes to either of these I strongly recommend facing them...... in which case the seats need to be cut. Don't waste your time lapping if they are like this, it will only serve to shorten the service life of the valve.Make sure the valve tips are dressed square too so the followers don't cause excessive rocking and elongation of the guide.


          • #6
            I used a power drill mounted in a vice to spin the valves.
            Then used a small flat blade screwdriver to get the carbon off and some fine wet and dry to get them nicely polished.
            This is with steel valves. Worked a treat, and didnt take too long.

            For removing the valves, I found a spark plug socket with a magnet in it works well.
            Less likely to lose the keepers.
            Respect is earned, not enforced.