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battery crimp terminals needed...

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  • battery crimp terminals needed...

    I'm finding it hard to find to find decent crimping terminals to suit my battery (pic) I'm thinking just a just a heavy duty crimp with a tab at 90deg.
    I dont want anything bulky because there's not a lot of room under the tank. I would also want a rubber boot and same for negative side.
    Ideally, I'd like to get the whole positive cable including the plug (93 Ducati Monster) because mines all twisted and looks shite, but if I can get decent terminal I'll graft a new cable to the plug.
    In the pic you can see that I have cut a bit of ally angle to mate up with the battery terminal and the existing cable lug that I had to flaten.
    In the second pic you can see the rubber boot is rooted and dosn't fit.


    anyone got any ideas/suggestions?




  • #2
    Don't use crimp terminals, they don't offer a decent connection and you lose a lot of power through them, especially on something like a V-Twin that needs a lot of power to crank it over.
    I'd be going to a battery place and getting the leads cut up to proper length and soldered.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Desmogod View Post
      Don't use crimp terminals, they don't offer a decent connection and you lose a lot of power through them, especially on something like a V-Twin that needs a lot of power to crank it over.
      I'd be going to a battery place and getting the leads cut up to proper length and soldered.
      I always learned from my nitro r/c'ing days that a crimp terminal offers a better electrical connection than solder, and a combination of both is more effective again. I had tested the notion myself and my multimeter agreed.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by polony View Post
        I always learned from my nitro r/c'ing days that a crimp terminal offers a better electrical connection than solder
        I would doubt it, but won't comment until I saw the results myself.
        Needless to say, I think you'll find that the resistance of a crimp terminal would go way up after a years worth of shit, water and crime corrode it to copper oxide and road grime.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Desmogod View Post
          I would doubt it, but won't comment until I saw the results myself.
          Needless to say, I think you'll find that the resistance of a crimp terminal would go way up after a years worth of shit, water and crime corrode it to copper oxide and road grime.
          I'll pay that, in the R/C world you are forever redoing the electrics so the build up wouldn't be an issue.

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          • #6
            Sorry polony, I'd disagree there. I'd take a half-decent solder connection over a crimp any day.
            Nulla Tenaci Invia Est Via
            For The Tenacious, No Road Is Impassable

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            • #7
              Also, smear dielectric grease over your terminals when you install them.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by xsnoiz View Post
                Sorry polony, I'd disagree there. I'd take a half-decent solder connection over a crimp any day.
                I know that crimps are better in a small nitro car where you swap the wiring regularly, and I originally found the info in R/C mags before testing it myself.

                I'm not saying that they are better in a large scale situation where they are a more long term thing, as desmo pointed out with the dirt and corrosion issues. I'm tempted to make up a few connections and do a real world comparison with pics of resistance measured.


                Enough about that anyways, if I get some time I'll make up a crimp v solder thread.

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                • #9
                  Solder is better in an RC car, I race both electric on and off road, where you want to maximise the current delivered to the motor (Tamiya TA05IFS and Team Losi XXX-CR). The biggest benefit of a crimp terminal is it's ease of disconnection. That said, I barely need to disconnect any of the wiring, except to replace the motor occasionally.

                  What Desmo has said is correct - a soldered connection is far far better than a crimped terminal. In the years I worked in the car audio industry, if I had to use a crimp terminal, it was roughed a little inside with a small rat-tail file, and then filled with solder after it was crimped. Every other connection I made was spliced and soldered.

                  An idea for the terminal you're looking for monsta is the positive terminal from a VT-Z Commodore. The positive lead comes up the side of the battery, and terminates at a right-angled lug, which bolts onto the positive terminal.
                  Last edited by STRIPR; 28-09-2009, 01:51 PM.
                  Nulla Tenaci Invia Est Via
                  For The Tenacious, No Road Is Impassable

                  Comment

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