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Broke my GT250 :-(

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  • Broke my GT250 :-(

    Was time to change the brake pads on my Hyo. So I undid the caliper, changed the pads and while I was tightening the mounting bolts, slipped with the wrench and managed to sheer off a mounting bolt. Aaarrgh.

    'course, can't just buy the bolt by itself. Now have to wait for a whole new assembly to arrive! Not happy and it was my own dumb fault.

    On the subject: Anyone with a GT250 have brake problems? No matter how much I bled the brakes (before I broke it) the front brake was... squishy. I could easily squeeze the lever down all the way. Could it be the master cylinder..?

  • #2
    Originally posted by vk6hgr View Post
    ... the front brake was... squishy. I could easily squeeze the lever down all the way. Could it be the master cylinder..?
    From the little I have read from owners it is caused by the rubber brake hoses. Braided lines are meant to fix it. I'm not sure why the ones on Hyos are meant to be worse than what other brands use.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the tip Alias.

      Yet more for the parts shopping list, but since I'm replacing the caliper, might as well replace the rest :-)

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      • #4
        surprised ya can't get a second hand bolt from wreckers?
        faster ya go closer to nirvana

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        • #5
          True, but since my life literally depends on these components, I'd might as well wear the unhappy no-riding downtime and replace all the parts with new.

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          • #6
            has ni which bolt needs replaced... but yeh better safe than sorry... even perceived
            faster ya go closer to nirvana

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            • #7
              A mate has a GT250.

              His brake pad material broke off the backing plate, his caliper weeps brake fluid and the pad guide pins were bone dry.

              Try start there.

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              • #8
                On the subject of brake pads, it is pretty much standard practice to replace the shitty stock pads. I don't know which ones are good on them though.

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                • #9
                  Why would you replace an entire calliper for a sheared bolt? Are you going to replace the bike when it's due for it's next service? I would replace all of the calliper bolts for peace of mind, but that would be more than extravagant enough.
                  Originally posted by Skut
                  ...the problem is that no-one wants to listen to an expert, just to have their own position/circumstance supported or be acknowledged.

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                  • #10
                    Here's the thing - the bolt that broke is part of the bracket that holds the calliper to the fork. A wrecker is probably not going to sell me just that bit, he'll want to sell me the whole assembly. So I save myself running around and trying to find a second hand one when Mr Hyosung will ship me one from Korea for a little bit more money in a little bit more time.

                    It seems the GT250 has rubbish brakes. The whole reason why I got at it today in the first place is because of the abysmal braking it had. Although it had Bendix pads I think it was being let down by everything else. So I'm going to replace the lot. It's only $300 odd and at 30k Kms it's probably due for it.

                    Chaderotti: Come to think about it, the guide pins were dry on my bike too. What should they be lubricated with?

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                    • #11
                      silicone grease..... n buy a new bolt
                      faster ya go closer to nirvana

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                      • #12
                        So retrieve what you can of the bolt and go to Searles Fasteners or a similar place, it will save you about $298. The calliper you get from Hyosung will work no better than what you currently have. And a wrecker WILL sell you just a mounting bolt for a calliper as he's not stripping a complete calliper to supply you with a mounting bolt.

                        I recently repaired the starter sprag in my Triumph 900. It's a $2200 to $2500 job from Triumph, if I could have found a dealer prepared to work on a bike of that age (1995, and the main Perth dealer won't). The fault with the sprag is a retaining spring that loses it's tension. I replaced just the spring, and completely serviced the bike, for a little under $150. I'm not a mechanic, not even close. Bikes tend to be expensive toys; this will be a VERY expensive hobby for you if you throw money at it for no good reason.
                        Originally posted by Skut
                        ...the problem is that no-one wants to listen to an expert, just to have their own position/circumstance supported or be acknowledged.

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                        • #13
                          Ok, I'll take some photos tomorrow so yas can see what I've broken, lest you think I'm some crazy who buys new parts without reason :-)

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                          • #14
                            If you're not confident enough to replace a sheared bolt then you should probably be letting a mechanic do all the work on your bike for you, or at least check the work you have done. It's not black magic, you just need to be logical and thorough when you extract and replace.
                            Ryan

                            Originally posted by Aufitt
                            Try Para045, he definitely sounds all gooey in the fork for ya

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                            • #15
                              If I wasn't confident in what I was doing, there's no way I would even touch the brakes. It's merely parts availability.

                              Did some more digging, you can buy most parts for Hyo brakes, but this bolt/pin is part of the caliper - So, I could either run around and find a wrecker who's willing to strip it from a part in stock and hope he can still sell the rest of it, or buy the whole thing complete. That's why I'm so annoyed at my dumb mistake... Ruined the whole thing by the careless use of a spanner :-(

                              And I'll be honest - running around finding the right part at a wrecker is the last thing I want to do a week or so before Christmas - click'n'buy online is a lazy way out :-)

                              Anyway. It's done now. $90 on a brand new one plus the other parts to rebuild the master cylinder and I'm much happier that I'll stop quick if I need to stop quick.
                              Last edited by vk6hgr; 15-12-2013, 06:35 AM.

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