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How do you know powervalves need attention?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by nath View Post
    So what causes that ? just the friction on the round part against the barrel with the cable pulling on the center section ?

    Would a low friction coating help in any way ?

    I think it's more the snapping of the top or bottom blade against the pin.


    Originally posted by rgvlee
    so you have adjusted them slightly open to begin with?
    Yep.

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    • #17
      adjusting them slighly open... will stretch the powervalve cables. The PV motor is quite stong... once the valves are fully open, the motor will still continue to pull the cables... something will give, hopefully just the cables.

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      • #18
        Yea, righto, just the pin getting banged back and forward, wearing and gradually getting worse.

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        • #19
          I'm only talking a couple of mm, I know its not the best for the cables or servo motor, but I'm not too worried about it.

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          • #20
            Keep in mind you are probably forcing that pin into the elongated section harder also.

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            • #21
              Funnily enough, all the results I have seen have the powervalves opening later as better for performance! it's one of the major things that the rs250 SAPC does.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by nath View Post
                Yea, righto, just the pin getting banged back and forward, wearing and gradually getting worse.
                Yeah theres a spring in one of them pushing the pin, so when you let go of the throttle I'm pretty sure the middle pin is snapped closed.

                Plus its a pin pressed into the centre of it, if it was cast or machined at the same pin size, it'd probably be fine.

                From memory, aren't the pins hollow as well?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by rgvlee View Post
                  Funnily enough, all the results I have seen have the powervalves opening later as better for performance! it's one of the major things that the rs250 SAPC does.

                  I just like it as a better 'kick'

                  I'll probably wire them open when I can be bothered. I reckon they are a pain if you just want to commute on the bike as well, I always seem to be cruising on the amount of revs they open and close on...

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by nath View Post
                    Keep in mind you are probably forcing that pin into the elongated section harder also.

                    I missed this post, I have the cougar billet valves.

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                    • #25
                      so it will just take a little longer to fuck up

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                      • #26
                        Ah, but it will probably still be on the road...

                        glass house, black kettle etc.

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                        • #27
                          LOL

                          only took 26 posts to take the piss out of nath again

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by rgvlee View Post
                            adjusting them slighly open... will stretch the powervalve cables. The PV motor is quite stong... once the valves are fully open, the motor will still continue to pull the cables... something will give, hopefully just the cables.

                            Isn't this what the springs are for on the actuators?

                            ie, you can turn the wheel as much as you like, once it gets to the end of it's travel, it pushes against the spring (which has "give" in it)... well, until it gets around a full 300 degrees or so...


                            edit:
                            not saying the cables won't stretch - they might... but the spring should "give" before anything else?
                            “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

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                            • #29
                              All the springs are designed to spring the valves closed again.

                              Once the valves are full open, they don't go any further, pulleys and all. If the servo wants to keep going it has the power to do so.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by rgvlee View Post
                                All the springs are designed to spring the valves closed again.

                                Once the valves are full open, they don't go any further, pulleys and all. If the servo wants to keep going it has the power to do so.


                                Um... i'm talking about the spring beneath the pulley... you can turn the pulley past the point of "full open" (also past the point of "full closed", if the spring is installed properly? The valves do not move any further, but the spring opens up allowing the wheel to turn with the valves staying put...


                                edit:
                                i've tested it and turned the pulley wheels myself by hand without the cables attached... you can turn well past full open/close... you're just working against a decent amount of spring pressure...
                                “Crashing is shit for you, shit for the bike, shit for the mechanics and shit for the set-up,” Checa told me a while back. “It’s a signal that you are heading in the wrong direction. You want to win but crashing is the opposite. It’s like being in France when you want to go to England and when you crash you go to Spain. That way you’ll never get to England!” -- Carlos Checa

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