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Seeping gasket/head re-torque

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  • Seeping gasket/head re-torque

    I've just had to re-torque the head nuts on the AIS because of slow seepage from the cylinder base gasket after the recent rebuild. The nuts were definitely not up to torque but I wouldn't normally give them a second look on an agricultural engine like this one. I would not replace the gasket in a case like this either but would anyone else here do it differently?
    Please, call me Flash...

  • #2
    Heat cycle, retorque, ride, retorque, check again after 500 kays.

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    • #3
      cylinder base gasket? doesnt sound like it'd need a new gasket, but i dunno shit about scooter motors. is it a 2T or 4T?
      If cleanliness is next to godliness, why was jesus a dirty sandal-wearing beardo?

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      • #4
        2T.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Desmogod View Post
          Heat cycle, retorque, ride, retorque, check again after 500 kays.
          Thanks. I was hoping to get away with not doing it on a cylinder this small. I guess an old fashioned design like this one needs to be treated the old fashioned way. Bastard nuts are inside the water jacket too.

          Originally posted by Semi View Post
          cylinder base gasket? doesnt sound like it'd need a new gasket, but i dunno shit about scooter motors. is it a 2T or 4T?
          It's a two-stroke but more like a lawnmower 2T than an RGV250 2T.
          Please, call me Flash...

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          • #6
            I'm a pedant though mate, you could probably get away with 1 retorqueing and not worry about the heat cycling etc.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Desmogod View Post
              I'm a pedant though mate, you could probably get away with 1 retorqueing and not worry about the heat cycling etc.
              Nothing wrong with doing it the right way, D. I was just being lazy and looking for someone else to give me the excuse not to follow the rules.

              Thanks again.
              Please, call me Flash...

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