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Edge molding for a custom desk

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  • Edge molding for a custom desk

    Hey gang

    I'm looking at building a desk into my study which is fixed to the wall, sits on a frame made of 2mm x 1" SHS gal with a 3/4" melamine on particleboard or MDF top. Did one at the first place I owned and it worked well.

    After thinking about different edges I've kinda settled on some options:

    1. Iron-on sticky back laminate or veneer. Cheap, easy, looks like cheap and easy (ie arse).

    2. Get some lengths of timber that matches the new flooring, get hands on a Triton or similar and route a 3-5mm radius on the top outer corner and chew out the guts to make an L profile which can be ??? attached to the front of the desk. Not sure how though: screw up from underneath on the foot of the L with liberal glue to the vertical?

    3. Go the same way I went with the last one, using the grey plastic T molding and a borrowed router to cut the groove: , but I've forgotten the place in Ossie Park I got this from the last time (it was 20 years ago) and no idea where to find it now.

    I will be putting a shelf above the desk all the way around too, and overhead cupboards. Whatever I choose for the edging on the desk will be used on the shelf and, if it's the timber option, probably for the doors of the cupboards too.

    Boxy types: any suggestions?
    "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

  • #2
    Timber is easy, and you can use small nails to secure it.
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    • #3
      Shit take it to any cabinet makers and they'll put on 1 or 2mm ABS edging which looks pretty good. Probs only cost you a six pack

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      • #4
        Worth consideration: Bunnings sell an extensive range of benchtops that they order/make to measure... I did this for a built-in study nook desk for my kids recently and the top cost around $150 and looks superb... edges were bullnosed and seamless.

        S.
        Chuck Norris is 1/8th Cherokee. This has nothing to do with ancestry, the man ate a fucking Indian.

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        • #5
          Tim, I'd be nervous about nails either looking like shit or pulling out or both. But something to bear in mind if I run out of easy options.

          Too big to be lugging around - I'll be pushing it to get the board back from WWTS in the first place. So no boxie visits.

          Thanks, phantom, for the Bunnings suggestion too. I'll have a look when I'm there this arvo.
          "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

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          • #6
            I built two walls of bookshelves, a computer desk and two desks for the kids to do homework on about 20 years ago.

            Jarrah veneered particleboard with iron on wood veneer for the shelves and solid jarrah for the desk edges.
            Buy a decent glue like Titebond, it is much stronger than PVA

            If you can borrow a Triton saw bench so everything is straight and square it makes life easy.

            Oh and the kids desks were a waste of time, they did most of their homework in the bedroom.

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            • #7
              bog it , smooth to desired shape ,stain it ,varnish it


              Straightline2ten your motorcycle and motor car repairer for smash repairs

              insurance or private work, plastic welding,resprays, restoration and classics

              dianella 93703770

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              • #8
                Potato, "bog it, sand it, paint it": that's your bloody answer for EVERYTHING.

                Thanks [MENTION=28240]Old frt[/MENTION] and [MENTION=6799]BlackFZR[/MENTION] - timber edging with decent glue and small brads might be a go if I can find the timber to match, jarrah's WAY too pink.

                If I go ahead it will deffo be with a borrowed Triton + saw and router. The ones I made as a test for the shed with just the circular saw, straight edge and clamps are ok but not quite polished enough for inside the house.

                But I'll have a chat with the shitmerchants at bunnings first, might just take a lotta pain away and get the thing done for me.
                "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

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                • #9
                  Try Cullity's, I think they have a branch down your way somewhere.

                  Much betterer than Bumblings.

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                  • #10
                    If I buy the timber for me to cut it'll be from Worldwide - heaps cheaper than Cullity's for the same stuff. Go figure, given they probably buy laminate from Cullity's anyway.

                    Bunnings is only an option if they'll cut, bullnose, set up the biscuit joins etc ready just to screw it together and down onto the frame for less than 1.2 kidneys.
                    "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

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                    • #11
                      IKEA have some pretty nice solid timber benchtops for reasonable money.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Crisis averted View Post
                        IKEA have some pretty nice solid timber benchtops for reasonable money.
                        Yeah they are actually surprisingly good, take all kinds of alcohol/food/knife abuse in my kitchen and bar/dining table... still haven't managed to dent one and no warping, swelling or delamination after 12 months.

                        I've got the Beech Numberar 2.4m lengths for kitchen worktops, the Beech 'Gerton' for a bar/dining table, and now looking at the 'Akerby' beech veneer kitchen worktop for my built in desk and shelves in the study as the 2460 length will be spot on for my 2400 width wall. Edges are all rounded off too which is handy.

                        The 2.4m solid wood lengths are super heavy though - definitely a 2 person job to safely lift and position.

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                        • #13
                          Galvins in ozzie park have the plastic edging, and Iron-on sticky back laminate or veneer

                          If you want timber edge bench top, would suggest gluing timber edge to MDF top then glue the laminate on top of both then when you router the edge it will make the join disappear.

                          I have pretty much all the tools you'll need to do this and happy to lend them to you but I'm not free till later next week
                          Stewie: Hello, mother. I come bearing a gift. I'll give you a hint. It's in my diaper and it's not a toaster.

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                          • #14
                            That's all good stuff, and a very kind offer [MENTION=11699]wheresmybadger[/MENTION].

                            Will investigate ikea and bunnings, then make for first decision of DIY vs just buy the thing. Looking at the room available, 2400x2400x600 would leave a dicky little gap but I'm sure I could rig the shredder under it or somesuch.

                            Cheers
                            "Once upon a time we would obey in public, but in private we would be cynical; today, we announce cynicism, but in private we obey."

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Captain Starfish View Post
                              That's all good stuff, and a very kind offer [MENTION=11699]wheresmybadger[/MENTION].

                              Will investigate ikea and bunnings, then make for first decision of DIY vs just buy the thing. Looking at the room available, 2400x2400x600 would leave a dicky little gap but I'm sure I could rig the shredder under it or somesuch.

                              Cheers

                              Not a problem offer stands
                              Stewie: Hello, mother. I come bearing a gift. I'll give you a hint. It's in my diaper and it's not a toaster.

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